1979 Camaro with T-tops. 250 straight six. Runs well. Automatic transmission. Inspection is good until the end of the year(12/12).
It has a new master cylinder, new rear shocks and new rear brakes(wheel cylinders, springs, shoes and cut drums). Needs a new muffler and tailpipe. The interior is fair. The seats are very nice(out of a Firebird) but the carpet is shot. Dashpad is cracked.
The wheels are American Racing Outlaw II's.
Included is a set of headers for a V8, a set of Z28 gauges with tach and a mid-90's 350. It's a 4-bolt main and turns over but should be considered a core engine to rebuild because it got water in one cylinder. That one will need to be bored at a minimum. Asking $1850.

 

Me personally I would ****** it up. Build a free 350 block if its not cracked and drop that sucker in. Body seems to be in great shape from the pic. Cracked dash is normal. Interior panels look clean and taken care of. It passed inspection so more that likely the 6 is up to par. I would buy it. Bore all eight cylinders doe, but first get the block checked integrity.

 

That seems like a very good price,it looks to be in good shape,plus the extras you will get with it.

 

Looks like a great price if the floors aren't rusted through. Sometimes T tops have leaking issues, so poke around underneath to see if the floors are really bad. A little rust repair wouldn't deter me at that price though.

 

Before I go and look at it what should I ask, dont really know what to do other than go and test drive it.

 

Take a blanket and flashlight with you. Crawl under the car best you can and look anywhere and everywhere for rust. It's an old car, so naturally there's going to be surface rust. You want to watch for structural rust, like where the front of the leaf springs and rear shackles mount to the frame, the upper shock mounts, etc. Also check the floors for common rust through. Take a refrigerator magnet (one of those thin weak ones), and try sticking it to different places on the body. If it falls off, you have a bondo repair hiding under the paint.
Things to ask are how long has he owned the car, the type of oil he uses and how often it gets changed, what has been fixed or replaced in the past. Don't expect full disclosure from the guy, as some sellers may tend to lie by omission. But generally, by talking to the guy, you should be able to get an idea of the type of owner he is and how well he cared for (or didn't) for the car.
And don't show any emotion. Act all excited, and the seller knows he has you hooked and is less apt to budge as much on the price. Also don't rush into anything. If something looks questionable to you, take pictures and pop them up here. You'll get help. Good luck.

 

I have a friend who gets a lot of deals on cars because he never buys a car the first time he looks at it. He looks them over thoroughly, asks lots of questions, drives them if possible, then thanks the seller after asking what he'll take.
A few days to a week later he calls and if the seller still has the car he figures they might be ready to take less. Occasionally he misses a car this way, but usually he gets them for less than the asking price after the wait.
I personally don't have the patience and get scared a good one will get away, so I try to make the best deal I can right off, and take it home or pass.

 

Yeah, if I know something is a good deal and want it, I'm not willing to wait a few days to chance losing it. But I always take the "I could take it or leave it" approach when talking to a seller. Things like "wow, I've been looking for a car like this for months" won't help you much at all. Oh yeah, while looking under the car, mumbling things (so the seller can hear) like "hmmmm" and "uh-oh" can also work in your favor!

 

Is it hard to rebuild these engines? He also said there is 190,000 miles on it.

 

Depends on the experience and resources of the builder. But gen I sbc are fairly simple to build if you know what your doing. Imo