two were sunk one was a runner. not sure if they all came from the same boat

heads are off, so can't check that way either.

 

Check all the cranks and cams side by side.

 

are there part numbers stamped on the ends of the cam and crank?

gonna be a while till they get torn down. i'm going over tonight to check the casting #'s and figure out what i have to work with.

 

Not completely correct. It depends on the style of drive used as to whether a single engine might be reverse rotation. If it's straight out, then it wont be reverse, but if it's got a outdrive below, then the engine can be reverse to keep the shaft going correct rotation.


If you have the starters still on the engines you can crank the starters and they will crank in reverse. If they aren't on the blocks, then you'll have to hand crank the engines to see if the valves open in reverse order to stock rotation. Do these engines have the crank triggers still also?

 

no starters. i can look at the flywheels though and see if maybe the wear is backwards

not sure what a crank trigger is.

here's some specs from the LQ4:


Casting Number 317, 035
Head: 2001+ LQ4 and LQ9 6.0 Liter Truck
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12562317 -LQ4
12572317 -LQ9
12572035 -LQ9
Combustion Chamber Volume: 71.06cc
Compression Ratio: 10:1 LQ9 Flat top pistons
Compression Ratio: 9.6:1 LQ4 Dish piston
Intake Port Volume: 210cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 75cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 2.00 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches

Stock Head Flow Numbers
Chamber 71.06cc----0.100---0.200--0.300--0.400--0.500--0.550--0.600
Intake 210cc-----------66-----142-----196---228----236---238-----240
Exhaust 75cc----------59-----104-----137---155----167---173-----177



What you need to know:
The LQ4 head received aluminum heads starting in models year 2001. All other features are the same as previous years iron heads. This is the workhorse head for street / strip turbo and blower cars. They offer a large combustion chamber that lowers compression ratio making them perfect for a forced induction application. Swapping on the LQ4 head drops the compression ratio of a typical LS1 engine to 9:5.1
The Cast-iron casting are heavy!

So you want to figure out how much to mill:

It takes about .005" milling of the block deck to remove 1cc of volume. It takes .007" milling to remove 1cc from an LS1 head

Simple Milling Math:

You have a stock 66cc chamber and you want to get down to 63cc

66-63 = 3. You have to remove 3cc's

.007 x 3 = .021. So to get your 66cc chambers down to 63cc you'd have to mill ~.021.

You can also do the reverse, say you want to mill a head .030 to figure out how many CC's that removes you take .030 / .007 = ~ 4.28. Milling a stock 5.7 head .030 puts your chamber at ~ 62.

 

I don't think the new generation Chevys have a distributor, instead they have a crank trigger that fires each coil pack. Do these engines have individual coil packs for each cylinder?

 

yes.

i have found two appealing options.

first has a brain/distributor that you run plug wires to that mounts back where the distributor would be and looks normal with the wires running from the back, up to the plugs.

second is a custom timing cover that you can insert a Ford distributor into and run the wires from the front back,

or i can keep it the way it is and have a computer made for my engine setup to run EFI...i just don't think i would be happy with it.

i like the nostalgic look, and i am forever tinkering.

tinkering with an EFI rig setup the way mine would be, could mean bad news. i don't like having a car that i can't work on without hooking a computer up to it...

 

If you're going to a custom distributor and a new camshaft, then it wont matter which direction it was set up for previously. The new cam and dist. will determine the direction, and you'll choose a std. style for those.

 

so the cranks are identical? that is what i'm really worried about. its the stroke i want and would hate to have to buy new...

 

Only the cams and spark firing are different.