Car still doesn't stop good
Here is an update to some posts a while ago about my 78 Z28 and its brakes...
the original problem was the left rear wheel was locking up when none of the others wheels were and the car was not stopping good. Since the car had very old brake fluid and was very dirty I replaced the rear brake cylinders, pads, drums and most of the springs. And because of a broken bleeder screw on the front, I replaced the front calipers too. With all that and with new fluid, it still is not stopping good and the rear wheel is still locking up too soon. So I am guesisng the master cylinder is shot but the pedel doesn't go to the floor as I would expect for this kind of problem, the car just does not stop quick enough.
I have never replaced a master cylinder and I need to do research to figure out how it is done.
JC
the original problem was the left rear wheel was locking up when none of the others wheels were and the car was not stopping good. Since the car had very old brake fluid and was very dirty I replaced the rear brake cylinders, pads, drums and most of the springs. And because of a broken bleeder screw on the front, I replaced the front calipers too. With all that and with new fluid, it still is not stopping good and the rear wheel is still locking up too soon. So I am guesisng the master cylinder is shot but the pedel doesn't go to the floor as I would expect for this kind of problem, the car just does not stop quick enough.
I have never replaced a master cylinder and I need to do research to figure out how it is done.
JC
Not sure how well this will do but doesnt cost anymore money. First, you or someone else press your brakes and look to make sure there is no leaks, then unscrew the lines from the M/C and test it to see if fluid sprays (messy). If everything is ok then unscrew all the lines (front, back and from M/C), remove all the fluid, take a compressor and blow out your lines from the two ends at your M/C to make sure there's no problems (check out the pressure of air on all ends) and wile your lines are off take your bleeder screws out and blow them out too. Put your bleeder screws back in and pour fluid into the M/C, gravity feed your lines, screw them back in and proceed to bleed your brakes.
Did you get any of the drums and rotors machined in this processed?? It is recommended that anytime that you change brake components, you machine them all at the same time. Also, how did you bleed the brake system and did you also bleed the master cylinder?? Lastly, you need to adjust the rear brake shoes evenly or else you will have the problem that you are noticing....
Recheck and get back to us if your problem continues.
Recheck and get back to us if your problem continues.
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