Best Gears?
#21
The tires that were on it suck (p235/60/15) and it is not posi. No matter what gears it has that motor will spin that little tire. I dont even have the traction bars installed yet.
Yes it snaps the gears. I know it has a shift kit. When it shift into second it breaks the tire loose and slams the car. I have had lots of shift kits. It also has a small B&M stall in it. The tranny is by no means stock.
When I change the gears I am going to add a posi unit and 26" slicks.
I didnt expect the car to have any traction at this time. You were correct on the gears. Im looking to build the entire car. I dont want the best gears for the car the way it sits. I want the best gears for the finished product.
As for cam it will have a lunati 60103 or 60104 a few weeks after the gears go in it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60104/
Everything is going to be matched to 6000 rpms.
Yes it snaps the gears. I know it has a shift kit. When it shift into second it breaks the tire loose and slams the car. I have had lots of shift kits. It also has a small B&M stall in it. The tranny is by no means stock.
When I change the gears I am going to add a posi unit and 26" slicks.
I didnt expect the car to have any traction at this time. You were correct on the gears. Im looking to build the entire car. I dont want the best gears for the car the way it sits. I want the best gears for the finished product.
As for cam it will have a lunati 60103 or 60104 a few weeks after the gears go in it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60104/
Everything is going to be matched to 6000 rpms.
#22
I had this one. http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2327&gid=297 I wish I could tell you it was a good cam. But I never installed it and traded it for my block. I have this one in my motor now. http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1989&gid=289 Again can't say much. Haven't lite the fire yet. maybe this weekend if all goes well. I have a harmonic balancer problem I have to work out first.
#24
Wow, you like the big one.
The 60104 is a close match to the 2.o8 heads I want to add someday.
So, you think my heads can handle that much cam. Im not worried about drivabilty
if the car can make it to the starting line and back then its all good.
I had another post asking about the cam, but no ones ever responded.
Ive never installed a cam any where near that large. Will I need to do anything
to the springs that are on it now. Of course I will replace the lifters. I have
the 60101 kit sitting on a self. I am just going to take the lifters out of that kit.
The 60104 is a close match to the 2.o8 heads I want to add someday.
So, you think my heads can handle that much cam. Im not worried about drivabilty
if the car can make it to the starting line and back then its all good.
I had another post asking about the cam, but no ones ever responded.
Ive never installed a cam any where near that large. Will I need to do anything
to the springs that are on it now. Of course I will replace the lifters. I have
the 60101 kit sitting on a self. I am just going to take the lifters out of that kit.
#25
What heads do you plan? Some companies will install the spring you spec. I would definitly run the recommended spring though. Lemme look in the basement. I think I have the springs that cam with my kit. I'll check the part number for ya. They were the wrong diameter for my heads.
#26
I wont be getting the heads for a year or so. I have to build my wife's car first.
Im just going to use the heads that are on it. No idea what they are came on the
crate motor.
This is the kit I dream about, but that is a lot of money.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K314-500-450/
Im just going to use the heads that are on it. No idea what they are came on the
crate motor.
This is the kit I dream about, but that is a lot of money.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K314-500-450/
Last edited by gfrench; 06-11-2010 at 10:53 AM.
#27
Just purchased the 4:11. I went with summit brand.
I called but they wouldnt tell me what they were.
Found a few other people saying they were Richmond gears.
I don't want to put much money in this rearend. I dont figure it will hold up.
I plan on just throughing in the posi, gears, crush sleeve and setting the shims.
I wasn't going to replace the bearings. I will run some color over them to check the
wear pastern, but this isnt going to be a professional rear end. This will be my first.
I am hoping to find a complete professional rear end on Craig's list on day.
I called but they wouldnt tell me what they were.
Found a few other people saying they were Richmond gears.
I don't want to put much money in this rearend. I dont figure it will hold up.
I plan on just throughing in the posi, gears, crush sleeve and setting the shims.
I wasn't going to replace the bearings. I will run some color over them to check the
wear pastern, but this isnt going to be a professional rear end. This will be my first.
I am hoping to find a complete professional rear end on Craig's list on day.
#28
Just purchased the 4:11. I went with summit brand.
I called but they wouldnt tell me what they were.
Found a few other people saying they were Richmond gears.
I don't want to put much money in this rearend. I dont figure it will hold up.
I plan on just throughing in the posi, gears, crush sleeve and setting the shims.
I wasn't going to replace the bearings. I will run some color over them to check the
wear pastern, but this isnt going to be a professional rear end. This will be my first.
I am hoping to find a complete professional rear end on Craig's list on day.
I called but they wouldnt tell me what they were.
Found a few other people saying they were Richmond gears.
I don't want to put much money in this rearend. I dont figure it will hold up.
I plan on just throughing in the posi, gears, crush sleeve and setting the shims.
I wasn't going to replace the bearings. I will run some color over them to check the
wear pastern, but this isnt going to be a professional rear end. This will be my first.
I am hoping to find a complete professional rear end on Craig's list on day.
I'm speaking from experience that didn't come out well for me. I wont ever mess with one again unless I've got experienced help right there guiding me. All the time and money down the drain isn't any fun at all.
#29
I don't want to put much money in this rearend. I dont figure it will hold up.
I plan on just throughing in the posi, gears, crush sleeve and setting the shims.
I wasn't going to replace the bearings. I will run some color over them to check the
wear pastern, but this isnt going to be a professional rear end. This will be my first.
I plan on just throughing in the posi, gears, crush sleeve and setting the shims.
I wasn't going to replace the bearings. I will run some color over them to check the
wear pastern, but this isnt going to be a professional rear end. This will be my first.
#30
I cant find any willing to help. I can build an engine, so I figure with the right guides I
can get the lash correct. You can rent the dials. There are a lot of videos on installing
gears. Powerblock has even done a special on it.
I fully understand these instructions. http://www.richmondgear.com/01instructions.html
I can get a shop to do it for $1500, but then I am spending $1500 for a rear end that
I will shell in 6 months to a year any way. That seems like a complete wast. I dont
have the $3500 for a ford 9" at this point in time.
I will find a ford 9" set up for a camaro on craigslist sooner or later in the $1500.
Seems it is smarter to practice building a rear end with a cheaper parts.
For under $200 I can get the gears I want, and they should last just as long
as a professionally built one. Since my HP is going to shell the rear end anyway.
Gives me a chance to to see if I can do it. Gives me something to play with.
Really, it cant be any harder then building an engine, as long as you take the time
and get the measurements correct. Most people mess up engines by rushing through
stuff. Look at how few understand how important valve adjustment is.
My options are -
a. $200 budget build, posi and gear will last 6 month to a year.
b. $1500, shop builds will last 6 months to a year.
c. Nothing till I have the $3500
I choose option a, gives me something to play with while saving the money for a
real rear-end. Im not out the $200 if it lets me play all summer.
I have been around while a few friends put 4:11 in an 86 Camaro and 4:56 in a Dodge
Cornet. They were able to get the gears to hold up till the Dodge Cornet twisted the
axles. I figure those will go first. I also put a locker in a jeep front axle. Has been fine
for a few years.
Besides, you guys are going to help if I have questions - Right?
What am I missing beside the importance of the lash?
Are those instructions not complete?
Im not trying to be a pain, but what is critical besides backlash and pinion depth.
Do you guys have any tips besides paying a shop to do it. I would rather not
pay for new bearings until I know I can get the lash correct. If I can get everything
set up correctly, then I can redo it and replace the bearings then.
No? Why?
can get the lash correct. You can rent the dials. There are a lot of videos on installing
gears. Powerblock has even done a special on it.
I fully understand these instructions. http://www.richmondgear.com/01instructions.html
I can get a shop to do it for $1500, but then I am spending $1500 for a rear end that
I will shell in 6 months to a year any way. That seems like a complete wast. I dont
have the $3500 for a ford 9" at this point in time.
I will find a ford 9" set up for a camaro on craigslist sooner or later in the $1500.
Seems it is smarter to practice building a rear end with a cheaper parts.
For under $200 I can get the gears I want, and they should last just as long
as a professionally built one. Since my HP is going to shell the rear end anyway.
Gives me a chance to to see if I can do it. Gives me something to play with.
Really, it cant be any harder then building an engine, as long as you take the time
and get the measurements correct. Most people mess up engines by rushing through
stuff. Look at how few understand how important valve adjustment is.
My options are -
a. $200 budget build, posi and gear will last 6 month to a year.
b. $1500, shop builds will last 6 months to a year.
c. Nothing till I have the $3500
I choose option a, gives me something to play with while saving the money for a
real rear-end. Im not out the $200 if it lets me play all summer.
I have been around while a few friends put 4:11 in an 86 Camaro and 4:56 in a Dodge
Cornet. They were able to get the gears to hold up till the Dodge Cornet twisted the
axles. I figure those will go first. I also put a locker in a jeep front axle. Has been fine
for a few years.
Besides, you guys are going to help if I have questions - Right?
What am I missing beside the importance of the lash?
Are those instructions not complete?
Im not trying to be a pain, but what is critical besides backlash and pinion depth.
Do you guys have any tips besides paying a shop to do it. I would rather not
pay for new bearings until I know I can get the lash correct. If I can get everything
set up correctly, then I can redo it and replace the bearings then.
No? Why?