I can't speak for your going nuts, that's between you, you, and you to figure out.
There's nothing that says you can't use u-bolts in place of the bolts. And many guys prefer to change over to u-bolts because they are stronger and more reliable than the T-bolt setup shown in the pic...especially when you use lower plate style slapper bars, or other spring mounted traction devices. If you look them up, you can find an application for 2nd gen u-bolts, even from resto companies. And since things can get changed over the years, there's no sure way to say which one would be under any given 2nd gen.

 

Yes you could change anything on any car, but they are not factory with U bolts.

 

Well we think we have it straight now but we haven't been down the road yet. As for the U-bolts, this car has nuts and bolts on the inside of the spring and a U-bolt on the tire side of the spring.

 

That's considered a "bare minimum" upgrade, better than not having u-bolts at all.
And what did you do to straighten it out?

 

So what was causing the canted rear axle?

 

+1

I would like to know also.

 

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

After taking some measurements we loosened up the front rear spring hanger brackets, where the locating tabs are, and adjusted until we had some very close dimensions. We plan to run it up the road when we get finished with the other issues. If need be we'll take it to a body shop to check the sub frame alignment.

 

The link I posted earlier has the subframe measurements in it. Its not that hard to check. Just a simple cross measurement. Just tryin to help ya save a buck or two.

 

Yea, those are the specs we used but if it still dog tracks it could be that it was wrecked. If so we'll have to find a shop. Thanks for the link.