79 Z28 Project
#21
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Paint jobs are all over the place price wise. Seems most quality paint jobs run around $3,000-$4,000 but you should ask around and talk to a lot of people. Someone may know somebody who does good work oout of a home paint shop that can beat the price.
Maaco is OK, but wont be the quality of factory or even close to a really good shop. Still if the prep work is done good by you and your friend, the Maaco paint can be an acceptable low cost option. I'd consider epoxy primer sealing it before it goes to Maaco, as they wont do that important step. They will clear coat it if you buy the highest level they sell, but it wont get a cut and buff so it may not be a really high gloss.
Maaco is OK, but wont be the quality of factory or even close to a really good shop. Still if the prep work is done good by you and your friend, the Maaco paint can be an acceptable low cost option. I'd consider epoxy primer sealing it before it goes to Maaco, as they wont do that important step. They will clear coat it if you buy the highest level they sell, but it wont get a cut and buff so it may not be a really high gloss.
#22
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Plan on that interior costing you well over $2500, I priced it out and I probably missed stuff, I think it came to $2800 if I remember correctly. You can just repaint your plastics you know. http://thecamaroclub.net/camaro_tech...ior_trim.shtml
1) Sound deadener + Insulator - $45
2) New Carpet - $137
3) New Seats - possibly just Scat ProCar Sportsman Racing Seats w/ tracks & sliders - $453
4) New Center Console + Lid - $340
5) New Pre-Assembeled Door & Quarter Trim Panels - $230
6) New Dash Components - (prices will vary depending on what I get)
I'm looking at $1200 without the dash stuff. Maybe $2k with some minor dash stuff or around $2400 if I decide to go with the 78 swap, but then I'd have to change the gauges and cluster as well.
Money is not an option for the interior, in my opinion. I rather have the interior completely suited to my tastes since that's where I will be spending the majority of the time in this car.
Paint jobs are all over the place price wise. Seems most quality paint jobs run around $3,000-$4,000 but you should ask around and talk to a lot of people. Someone may know somebody who does good work oout of a home paint shop that can beat the price.
Maaco is OK, but wont be the quality of factory or even close to a really good shop. Still if the prep work is done good by you and your friend, the Maaco paint can be an acceptable low cost option. I'd consider epoxy primer sealing it before it goes to Maaco, as they wont do that important step. They will clear coat it if you buy the highest level they sell, but it wont get a cut and buff so it may not be a really high gloss.
Maaco is OK, but wont be the quality of factory or even close to a really good shop. Still if the prep work is done good by you and your friend, the Maaco paint can be an acceptable low cost option. I'd consider epoxy primer sealing it before it goes to Maaco, as they wont do that important step. They will clear coat it if you buy the highest level they sell, but it wont get a cut and buff so it may not be a really high gloss.
#24
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http://npd.dirxion.com/WebProject.as...a10flx&from=2#
#25
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Here's a question. My brother had a Holeshot 2800RPM stall converter installed before he put the new motor in and his buddy told him to upgrade to a 3000RPM one. His buddy did the install and ever since then that tranny continually leaks. What could be the problem?
He tells me the 2800RPM one he had was a perfect fit and never had problems and he still has it. He told me to put that one back in. Are than any advantages/disadvantages to having a 3000RPM stall over 2800 vice versa?
He tells me the 2800RPM one he had was a perfect fit and never had problems and he still has it. He told me to put that one back in. Are than any advantages/disadvantages to having a 3000RPM stall over 2800 vice versa?
#26
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It's possible the converter wasn't seated when he put it in and damaged the front seal. Can you tell where the leak is coming from? A 2800 stall converter is pretty high speed! I run a 2200 for a pretty big cam. Anything around 2000 or higher is pretty high. Can't imagine why you'd ever want a 3000 rpm.
At cruising speed with a 3:42 rear I'm doing under 2500 rpm at 65. So a 2800 would never lock up, and eventually it will take the clutches out. You'd probably need 4:11-4:56 gears to get locked up with a 3,000 stall converter.
NPD has dash caps that cover the cracked pad and look just like a pad. Priced at $89. on page 12 for a 1979.
At cruising speed with a 3:42 rear I'm doing under 2500 rpm at 65. So a 2800 would never lock up, and eventually it will take the clutches out. You'd probably need 4:11-4:56 gears to get locked up with a 3,000 stall converter.
NPD has dash caps that cover the cracked pad and look just like a pad. Priced at $89. on page 12 for a 1979.
#27
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It's possible the converter wasn't seated when he put it in and damaged the front seal. Can you tell where the leak is coming from? A 2800 stall converter is pretty high speed! I run a 2200 for a pretty big cam. Anything around 2000 or higher is pretty high. Can't imagine why you'd ever want a 3000 rpm.
At cruising speed with a 3:42 rear I'm doing under 2500 rpm at 65. So a 2800 would never lock up, and eventually it will take the clutches out. You'd probably need 4:11-4:56 gears to get locked up with a 3,000 stall converter.
NPD has dash caps that cover the cracked pad and look just like a pad. Priced at $89. on page 12 for a 1979.
At cruising speed with a 3:42 rear I'm doing under 2500 rpm at 65. So a 2800 would never lock up, and eventually it will take the clutches out. You'd probably need 4:11-4:56 gears to get locked up with a 3,000 stall converter.
NPD has dash caps that cover the cracked pad and look just like a pad. Priced at $89. on page 12 for a 1979.
Is it difficult to replace the front seal?
I was thinking of the dash cap and I may just go with that. Check this out.
http://nastyz28.com/index.php?page=camarodashrepair
What kind of gauges are those in the pictures listed in the "Results" cell? Those are really nice! That's a '78 obviously since it is rounded, but do they make similar types of gauges for the '79?
#28
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Depends on what you consider difficult. ![Smile](https://camaroforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
You have to separate the engine from the trans and pull the torque converter. The seal is around the input shaft and takes about 2 mins to remove and about 2 mins to install. Removing the trans, disconnecting from the flexplate, etc., will take you an hour or two depending on tools and experience. Then reverse the process and you are done.
![Smile](https://camaroforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
You have to separate the engine from the trans and pull the torque converter. The seal is around the input shaft and takes about 2 mins to remove and about 2 mins to install. Removing the trans, disconnecting from the flexplate, etc., will take you an hour or two depending on tools and experience. Then reverse the process and you are done.
#29
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I belive by looking at your pics that you have a 290 hp crate motor. Just a guess. If it still has that cam in it I wouldn't think it would need a converter at all. At least not one much higher than stock. I would question the craftsmanship of a guy wanting to stall a 290 horse engine at 3 grand. I don't claim to be an expert in this area, but man that sounds way off. I would talk to the guy you go the car from and know exactly what crate motor he bought. Its from GM so it will be easy to get the cam specs. Then give B+M a call with that info and see what they recommend. I'd bet dollars to dougnuts it ain't 2800. If you need help finding the cam specs let me know. I have a ton of catalogs with GM crate motors in them. Best bet would be GM Performance Parts web site or Scoggin ****ey.
How does that tranny fluid look by the way? Does it smell burned? We'll help get you squared away. Don't worry.
How does that tranny fluid look by the way? Does it smell burned? We'll help get you squared away. Don't worry.
#30
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I belive by looking at your pics that you have a 290 hp crate motor. Just a guess. If it still has that cam in it I wouldn't think it would need a converter at all. At least not one much higher than stock. I would question the craftsmanship of a guy wanting to stall a 290 horse engine at 3 grand. I don't claim to be an expert in this area, but man that sounds way off. I would talk to the guy you go the car from and know exactly what crate motor he bought. Its from GM so it will be easy to get the cam specs. Then give B+M a call with that info and see what they recommend. I'd bet dollars to dougnuts it ain't 2800. If you need help finding the cam specs let me know. I have a ton of catalogs with GM crate motors in them. Best bet would be GM Performance Parts web site or Scoggin ****ey.
How does that tranny fluid look by the way? Does it smell burned? We'll help get you squared away. Don't worry.
How does that tranny fluid look by the way? Does it smell burned? We'll help get you squared away. Don't worry.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-10067353/
I got more info about the stall. A 2000RPM stall converter was installed and they swapped it for a 3000RPM.
It's a GM 350 Crate modified with:
+ torqer II manifold
+ summit cam kit: 282/282 duration w/ lifters
+ valve adjustment
+ timing: 10* 700RPM curb idle (ported preferred on dist)
+ holly 670cfm elec choke carb
+ summit dual feed w/ gauge for carb
+ holly fuel pump 9psi max
+ summit fuel pressure regulator
+ 3/8 fuel lines & fittings
+ stock water pump
+ 18" flex fan
350C6C2 350 trans w/ lockup