If you have very much rust it will be much easier to replace it than patch it. Every patch you put in will be more areas that need filler and more chances for ripples or waves in the surface. You also need to remove donor metal from the exact same place as your holes are so the contours stay the same, or that will create ripples or humps too!
When doing a complete roof you can drill out the spot welds around the windshield and rear window, then cut it along the side with a parting wheel about .5" back from the edge. A new roof can be welded in at the area that's under the windows when done and it wont show. The sides can be overlapped and welded and it wont show when finished.
Remember you've got an inner roof too, and it wont need to be removed to do the outter skin, but you will need to heat the outter skin to get the factory adhesive to let loose, and then use more adhesive on the new skin when it's set in place to keep from rattling and squeaking.

 

ill probably end up replacing the whole thing if i can find a roof, i called npd and they said that they didnt have one for the 78, i seen one for a 6?-74 in a catalog at work. it seems like everything stops at 74 and then hops right over my year lol

 

Is the vinyl top molding in good shape?

 

the viynle is all tattered and torn i can easily rip it off , for now im gona sand down around the holes and just throw some bondo over it for now untill i can afford get the new top

 

So you are going to put a new vinyl top on then?

 

no im gona keep it a hard top with no vinyl, i might have to patch the layer of roof under the main roof becuase it has eatin its way through the top one there is holes all over it,

 

I just seen a complete inner and outer roof panel on ebay yesterday.It is from a california car so there is no rust at all.I think it was like $150 and shipping was another $140 or so but like i said it was complete inside and out.

 

PM sent!

 

i did not recieve any pm?

 

I tried sending another one. hopefully it went through!