76 _camaro
#11
If you are say @400hp or less and have a factory T-10 4speed you should be OK,you might want to upgrade to a steel bellhousing if you plan on doing burnouts or drag racing.
The old T-10 is a pretty tough trans,if it has the Saginaw 4 speed,well let's just say I wouldn't plan on it lasting very long behind some real power.
Autos vary too, the 350 turbo is a pretty good trans but when you go big power it will need mods to hold up,the 400 auto is a lot tougher but I doubt you have one in your car and even then if you have a performance cam with a high idle any auto will need a stall converter and should have a shift kit at the very least.
Again,the cart before the horse if you do the motor first.
Beef up the car to where it is tough as nails and then get some power hooked up to it.
#12
Depends on how much motor you out in and what tranny you have,is it an auto or stick and which make/model auto or stick?
If you are say @400hp or less and have a factory T-10 4speed you should be OK,you might want to upgrade to a steel bellhousing if you plan on doing burnouts or drag racing.
The old T-10 is a pretty tough trans,if it has the Saginaw 4 speed,well let's just say I wouldn't plan on it lasting very long behind some real power.
Autos vary too, the 350 turbo is a pretty good trans but when you go big power it will need mods to hold up,the 400 auto is a lot tougher but I doubt you have one in your car and even then if you have a performance cam with a high idle any auto will need a stall converter and should have a shift kit at the very least.
Again,the cart before the horse if you do the motor first.
Beef up the car to where it is tough as nails and then get some power hooked up to it.
If you are say @400hp or less and have a factory T-10 4speed you should be OK,you might want to upgrade to a steel bellhousing if you plan on doing burnouts or drag racing.
The old T-10 is a pretty tough trans,if it has the Saginaw 4 speed,well let's just say I wouldn't plan on it lasting very long behind some real power.
Autos vary too, the 350 turbo is a pretty good trans but when you go big power it will need mods to hold up,the 400 auto is a lot tougher but I doubt you have one in your car and even then if you have a performance cam with a high idle any auto will need a stall converter and should have a shift kit at the very least.
Again,the cart before the horse if you do the motor first.
Beef up the car to where it is tough as nails and then get some power hooked up to it.
i have the stock 350 turbo trans with a shift kit..is 400 enough big power to need to mod or get a new trans?
ok well i have about $6200 to spend..i was going to get the motor and a paint job..but what specifically would you recommend me doing with it?
#13
I'd get something like this http://store.summitracing.com/partde...9&autoview=sku
Pretty good and reliable bang for your buck,you can still afford to buy a new carb and whatever else you need in get it up and running.
Might still have some money left toward that paint job too.
Should be good to go with your stock drive train,it'll be OK as long as you don't tear it up too often.
Last edited by Y2K; 05-10-2009 at 10:14 PM.
#14
I'd say it's about borderline,how well/long it holds up will have a lot to do with how you drive it.
Well that all depends on what you want out of the car,if you want to hot rod it or drag race on the weekends or a nice daily driver,either way that isn't really enough money for a build and a good paint job.
I'd get something like this http://store.summitracing.com/partde...9&autoview=sku
Pretty good and reliable bang for your buck,you can still afford to buy a new carb and whatever else you need in get it up and running.
Might still have some money left toward that paint job too.
Should be good to go with your stock drive train,it'll be OK as long as you don't tear it up too often.
Well that all depends on what you want out of the car,if you want to hot rod it or drag race on the weekends or a nice daily driver,either way that isn't really enough money for a build and a good paint job.
I'd get something like this http://store.summitracing.com/partde...9&autoview=sku
Pretty good and reliable bang for your buck,you can still afford to buy a new carb and whatever else you need in get it up and running.
Might still have some money left toward that paint job too.
Should be good to go with your stock drive train,it'll be OK as long as you don't tear it up too often.
but the 383 at jegs (http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint+Engi...97263/10002/-1) is only $3800 for 420 HP and 450 TQ..but im thinking if i need to make my car stronger then should i use the extra money to get a new trannie or rear instead of a paint job? do you think this 383 would be good with my stock drive train and stock trannie with the additional 65 hp?
#15
well i want a good car that i can use as a daily driver but that can also kick some a$$ if someone wants to drag at a light
but the 383 at jegs (http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint+Engi...97263/10002/-1) is only $3800 for 420 HP and 450 TQ..but im thinking if i need to make my car stronger then should i use the extra money to get a new trannie or rear instead of a paint job? do you think this 383 would be good with my stock drive train and stock trannie with the additional 65 hp?
but the 383 at jegs (http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint+Engi...97263/10002/-1) is only $3800 for 420 HP and 450 TQ..but im thinking if i need to make my car stronger then should i use the extra money to get a new trannie or rear instead of a paint job? do you think this 383 would be good with my stock drive train and stock trannie with the additional 65 hp?
Looks like about $4K with the carb,not a bad deal.
A bit more ponies than I'd like to see with a stock trans and rear end but again a lot depends on how you drive it.
That 350trans might last quite a while or like I posted earlier you might nail it at a light and have the driveline and half the trans come out in pieces or explode the rear end when it shifts,who knows?450lbs of torque is a big punch,subframe connectors would be a good idea as well.
You gotta pay to play.
#16
Looks like about $4K with the carb,not a bad deal.
A bit more ponies than I'd like to see with a stock trans and rear end but again a lot depends on how you drive it.
That 350trans might last quite a while or like I posted earlier you might nail it at a light and have the driveline and half the trans come out in pieces or explode the rear end when it shifts,who knows?450lbs of torque is a big punch,subframe connectors would be a good idea as well.
You gotta pay to play.
A bit more ponies than I'd like to see with a stock trans and rear end but again a lot depends on how you drive it.
That 350trans might last quite a while or like I posted earlier you might nail it at a light and have the driveline and half the trans come out in pieces or explode the rear end when it shifts,who knows?450lbs of torque is a big punch,subframe connectors would be a good idea as well.
You gotta pay to play.
#18
sorry i didnt mean too..it just kept building and building..but it still kind of gives you some idea of what you need to do if you get a bigger engine and other parts