Ok here are the costs,
hot tank and magneflux $150
bore and torque plate hone $200
cam bearings, studs and freeze plugs $65
shot pean (optional) $30
square deck $200 ( or $150 for basic)
block clearance(383) $150
Line hone(because of studded mains $150 Total $945 @ 6% tax = $1001.70 this applys to a 400hp engine

I looked into bittit 2 bolt caps the caps are $70 but the must be bored and line honed additional $250
4 bolt splayed cap mid grade installed bored and honed $500
balance crank $150 with rods $200
I was told for 400 hp using a factory cast crank was a gray area(followed by I wouldnt do it)
I was told shot peaning resizing and using arp bolt in factory rods would be $200
he said it wasnt worth it and you would be better off with aftermarket
I am figureing on aftermartket eagle cast crank and rods only the crank would need balanced given the known weight of pistons and rods
studded factory two bolt mains

additional parts prices assuming I dont use what I have(not exact but close) I mivise some when I get out the jegs and summit books
crank $200
rods $250
cam $100
hydraulic lifters $100
timing chain and gears $40
rebuilt hei $80
rocker arms $100
push rods $60
Gaskets $120
carb $350
Manifold $175
heads $900
oil pump $100
fuel pump $50
plug wires and plugs $100 = $2725 + machining $1001 = $3726 me doing assembly I am sure I forgot something or the parts prices are not exact but I believe this engine is being built to accepable standards(mine) funny thing is I heard once a rough engine builing estimate/hp is $10 per hp I guess it is pretty close.

 

The prices are high in some places. Boiling should be around $ 40, I feel pressure testing is much vetter on a block than magnafluxing. The block has too many places you can't see with the mag process. Pressure test about $ 75. The bore / hone w/ plates is in line. Install CB/FP about $ 40. Cripe, install the studs yourself. Shotpeening a block is BS. The square deck should be about $ 125. Block clearance is in line. Hope tthis gives Yiu some guidelines. Machine shop work in Texas isn't taxable. sorrry about Pa, but You might check across in OH.

 

If you install the studs for the mains they say they have to be line honed because it will distort the caps I can put in the studs its the line honing that is 150 unless you mean installing the splayed caps myself? I am not going to have it shot peaned. I have used three machine shops around here and none ever suggested pressure testing do they presserize the cylinders or what. I doubt that the pressure testing will show all the potential problems either(this block may have an issue in the lifter gallery area) The fp and cb are installed in the $150 cleaning mag process the cost is for the fp bearings and studs. The pricing of this shop is slightly higher than the last but it is close.

As a side note I looked into new gm factory blocks they have a 4 bolt 350 for $625 inclding caps not to bad considering the chance you take with a used block, I have to send my dad to the machine shop tomarrow either a factory flaw or a crack in the lifter gallery if he thinks its questionable Ill scrap it and look for a 454 lol.

 

I cannot see how the studs are going to change anything. All they are doing is replacing the existing bolts, not moving the caps around.
Change the studs, Torque them down with bearings in place and check the main bearing clearance. Use an inside mike on the bearings and make sure they're round and true and that the clearances are within tolerance. I'm sorry, but I've never had to even align hone after changing onlt the studs, If it needs align honing, it'll need it whether You use studs or not. Think about it, it doesn't make sense that it would distort the caps.........You're just basically changing bolts for studs.

 

Makes sense to me I am just repeating what they said I stopped at the shop today and really gave them a rundown on what we have been talking about it has helped alot thanks, and also I was wrong about pressure not showing the suspected crack if it extends into the water jacket it would. when I spoke to him I though he ment down between the lifters it is actuallyabout 3/4 the way down the cylinder on the inside about the lifter area it appears horizonatally about 3/4 inch long he does not believe it extends into the water jacket(I forgot to ask about pressure testing) I am going to have him epoxy it inside and out and then I will partially fill it with hard block.

At this time I am going to start a new post because I am departing way to much from the the subject started in this post.

 

Studs are just stronger because they are stretched from both ends. It won't change the actual location of the main caps.

 

They say it can distort the register of the block causing misalignment, opinions are all over the place on the subject, if the crank is changed and studs are used alot of people suggest to do it, David Vizard says it is a waste, ARP says to do ithttp://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html its under the main stud section.... I like Bills aproach on checking it first. I guess it is just one of those decisions you have to make. I am using bolts in the 350 so hopefully it isnt a problem.