Here's the completed rear storage area on my Camaro "Coupe"!





The bottom panels are hinged for hidden storage of small items. I built the panels out of 1/2" plywood, and covered them with heavy, stiff wool felt carpet. The braces and brackets are all built from 2"x2" aluminum angle. Screwed to the wood and sheet metal. The largest back panel is removeable for access to speakers and wiring in the future.

 

Hm, havnt looked at craigslist before for carbs. Im looking for a 650-700cfm for less than 200 total cost(incl shipping) but id like to have a quality one that will last.

Do you have any suggestions for increasing compression without stroking the motor? I was thinking of putting 305 heads, but i am not happy with 8.1:1 compression.

 

About 90% of the time a rebuild is all you need to do to a carb for it to function correctly. Rarely is there a mechanical failure that destroys the carb or tears something up but they do happen. You just need to check over what you're buying if possible. The one on my car right now is from 1972 (IIRC) and runs very well.

Depends on your budget. By "stroking" in your words up there I assume you mean boring. Stroking is where you change the stroke length with a different crank and rods.

Pistons can be a cheap way to go if you don't need your cylinders bored and honed and just be able to get by with breaking the glaze for a new set of rings. This requires an entire tear down of the engine though and you'll need to pay someone to remove the old pistons from the rods and install the new ones. I can get piston/rod swaps done locally for about 70 - 80 bucks a set. You have to know if your heads and block have been milled though otherwise you might run into problems with clearances. If you tear down the engine yourself and buy a set of economy pistons for 160 - 200 bucks you're looking at an install of around 300 - 450 bucks after you pay for parts, labor, gaskets and other misc items.

Other than that would be heads and your gasket setup. This would also be your easiest way but possibly your most expensive if you go with a good set of aftermarket heads. It just depends on what you get with this. Racingjunk.com sometimes has some really good deals on heads.

 

The biggest problem with used carbs is the shaft for the butterflies. Sometimes the baseplate or shaft wears and might leak air around the shaft. Not the end of the world, but it will be a bit spendy to have the baseplate bushed to eliminate slop. Check the shafts very closely for play on used carbs.

 

That's the only real problem I've ever ran into. The bushing kit is around 125 if I remember correctly. It's good if you've had the carb for years but if you just bought a used one and then have to use the kit then you've just bought a new carb almost. I have a 600cfm here that's loose and it's shame because the rest of it is in great condition. That's the main thing I was talking about with the "mechanical failure" in my last post was the shafts.

 

$125? WOW! I've turned them out on my lathe and then set the base up in the mill to get them accurately line bored true. Guess I should start turning out bushings if they sell for that much!!!!!!!

 

These are what you're talking about right? A throttle shaft repair kit that installs new bushings? These are about 10 bucks more than the holley ones.

...and I'll stop hijacking this thread about holley parts now. ;p

 

Still working on prepping the body for paint, but when I get tired of body work I stray. As I mentioned before, my car was used for 1/4 mile racing into the 1980s. and the gauges were mounted to the cowl vents on the old hood. Didn't want to remove the gauges, but also didn't want to drill holes in my new cowl hood, since it doesn't have the factory vents, so here's what I built today: