2bbl to 4bbl swap
#2
Before you take the thing apart, put a paint mark on the distributor cap at the back perpendicular to the firewall. That will be your reference. Then pull the cap and bump the engine until the rotor points straight at the same mark.
Now you can pull the distributor and change everything out without worrying about it. Be sure to pull your battery lead, so nobody can crank the engine while the distributor is out. Once it's done, drop the distributor back in slightly ahead of the mark, and as it drops it will turn into position. It will only drop in either right on, or 180 degrees off, so you just pick it up slightly and drop it back in until it points correctly.
Now you can pull the distributor and change everything out without worrying about it. Be sure to pull your battery lead, so nobody can crank the engine while the distributor is out. Once it's done, drop the distributor back in slightly ahead of the mark, and as it drops it will turn into position. It will only drop in either right on, or 180 degrees off, so you just pick it up slightly and drop it back in until it points correctly.
#3
Hayes Manuals offer good insight. If the intake has never been removed from that engine there is going to be more work on removing the old intake gasket material. There is a product out there that removes the dried flaky residue but you have to let it set for 15 to 20 minutes. Major engine work like that I approach as like I'm a doctor and I'm gonna operate on a patient...LOL. Basically take your time and be meticulous with the procedure. If this is your first time, you would want a friend for an extra set of eyes and hands. Try to have time on your side. Take the distributor cap off. Get a note pad and either draw or write down (or even take a picture on a camera) which small hose goes where, where wires were plugged in and how the distributor rotor was positioned. You really wanna to have tools clean and be patient because you don't want anything falling into the lifter area and then falling down to the oil pan. That will be a headache. Make sure you drain the coolant before starting. Also you will need to fill the intake ports with shop towels or something while cleaning the intake ports of the heads. When you have the heads clean, observe how the gaskets are gonna lay. Don't use those small rubber gasket strips the kit brought. A thick gab of RTV silicone and letting it "skin" works much better. There is a procedure you want to follow on tightening the bolts down.
I've done many intake swaps on 2nd and 3rd generations and I've learned that patience and time is just as important as having the right tools.
I've done many intake swaps on 2nd and 3rd generations and I've learned that patience and time is just as important as having the right tools.
#4
I use the side gaskets for the intake, but not the end pieces. Once you run a bead of RTv on each end, set the manifold carefully in place and start all the bolts. Don't do anything more than snug them by hand. After it sets up for a couple hours come back and tighten the bolts.
Also, before you install the intake (after cleaning) get a shp vac and vacuum all the tiny debris pieces from everywhere that the rags missed. Then it will really ready for the above steps.
Also, before you install the intake (after cleaning) get a shp vac and vacuum all the tiny debris pieces from everywhere that the rags missed. Then it will really ready for the above steps.
#6
Havent done it yet. I havent had time? I may take the 4bbl carb and put it on my Jeep for now. Ive got 4 kids at home that keep me pretty busy. I work 2 jobs. Ive got a few buddies that are willing to help me. One builds drag motors. Plus i dont fill like workin on my car out is 20 degree weather.
J.
J.
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