Well from those pics thats all the damage basically, glad I could finally get those photos up. Of coarse I left out the crappy window seal which i think is the instigator for all those back end problems to begin with. Looks like its really common though I bet.

Thanks for the comment though on the car, I like it too, especially the silver color. I just hope I dont gotta drop more then $2000 to get this thing lookin almost new again outside that is lol.

 

From looking at the pics I'm not sure you need a new trunk pan. Hvae you tried poking at it with a screwdriver to see if it goes through anywhere? If it doesn't then you can clean and neutralize the rust, then give it a good coat of paint.
In pic #3 the area looks like it's rusty enough to address, but not sure how bad from the pic. Much of the internal pics look like wire wheel and neutralizing, then painting to get them good. The body bubbles will need to be addressed, but not with full panels. They can be done with patch panels that are no larger than the bubbled rusty areas.
My main concern would be the rear window leak. There's a valance panel that goes between the rear window and the trunk lid. That panel is removeable, and if the window is leaking there's no telling what you'll find under that panel once the window is pulled and the panel removed. Usually the panel is fine, but the window seal area can be rusted out if water sat in there, and the panel below the valance panel can also be rusted out. If that's the case, then your $1500 guesstimate could be eaten up on that one area alone.
I'd sure try to clean, neutralize, and paint a lot of the inside pieces yourself first, then take it to a shop to tackle the hard stuff. A wire wheel will clean it up quick, and then you can see what you've got left.

 

Most of that looks really easy, especially the trunk if a screwdriver doesnt go through. Sand it down with whatever you have, vacuum or blow out all the dust, and then grab a spray can and go to town. The other spots that are hidden don't look tough at all either. They look pretty hidden so you could do what bb427 said and sand them, hit it with some rust neutralizer, and throw some paint on there.

I don't think it would make sense to be ok with spending 2000 on a couple rust spots and then having someone paint them to match the car. If anything do it the best you can by yourself and save up money throughout the winter and get a whole new paint job in the summer. That way they can address all of the rust issues, even the little one's you may have at the edge of your door or on the front of the car from rocks over the years.

You sound like you are very meticulous and you want your car to be perfect. If that's the case, i would do enough just to get it through the winter and then have it painted in the spring so come summer time, you'll have a real nice cruiser.

 

Yeah, a lot of that is surface rust that can be easily addressed. I WOULD NOT go repainting that car, unless it really really needed it! An all original, low miles, "survivor" car, even with some minor flaws in the paint, is worth more than if it had a shiny new paint job. "Untouched", "unmolested", and "unrestored" means a lot in the collector car world.

 

the screw driver definitely goes through on the trunk pan. From what I can tell the rear valence panel and area above the trunk are all perfectly fine, the water just fell into the trunk, never really attacked the area above the trunk. Ill go out and post pictures of that area here in a minute. I am more concerned about the bottom of the quarter panel which is where it looks like rust got into pretty bad and that tail light area.

 

The bottoms of the 1/4 panel can easily be patched with small patch panels. The tailight area depends on what's rotted. If it needs a whole tail panel it could get spendy.

 

heres a picture showing the rear window, it doesnt look too bad looks like i caught the problem before i could do much beyond rotting out the trunk.

Rear Window pictures by naburt - Photobucket

 

As I mentioned before, you wont know how bad it is until the rear window is pulled and that panel between the window and trunk lid is removed. Once that ia removed you'll see what's underneath and know how bad the damage is. There's a small phillips screw to the outside of each hinge, and then about 4-5 screws that are buried under the edge of the rear window trim. Once those are pulled the panel lifts off and the metal hidden below can be assessed for rust.
The window needs to be pulled to reseal anyway, so just take it to a shop and have them pull it, then leave it there and go home and remove the screws and that panel. If all is well you can simply clean and paint underneath, then back to the glass shop to have the rear window reinstalled.
My local glass shop charged me $100 to R&R the rear glass when I did this. I simply wire brushed the area below and then brush painted it with Rustoleum since it doesn't show, and I wanted a good coat of paint underneath.

 

On the later cars its a 7mm hex head.

 

i pulled that sheet metal part off and there was nothing, I shoulda showed that in the pictures. im pretty happy, my local shop said they would do the car for around $800 and 1200-1300 tops lol. Looks like i might be taking it in there in a week or two probably. Something i found hilariouslly funny today though was I found out my car was not originally silver. it was actually black, but id never go back to that color ever again no way. I think these cars look terrible in all black and talk about hot.