1974 Camaro Restoration
#11
03-13-2010, 04:59 PM
Well we got the motor apart. time to get it sent off to the shop. getting it dipped, bored and honed. We ordered a rotating assembly from ohiocrank.com. We will be stroking it to 383.
Hopfully we can get the car over to the shop this weekend to get started on the body and frame. Anybody know who makes the best frame connecter for gen 2 f-bodies? last time i made my own and it was alot of work. prefer to buy them this time.
Hopfully we can get the car over to the shop this weekend to get started on the body and frame. Anybody know who makes the best frame connecter for gen 2 f-bodies? last time i made my own and it was alot of work. prefer to buy them this time.
#13
03-13-2010, 10:52 PM
Yeah, I drag raced my '71 with a big old heavy cast iron headed big block for 16 years with stock discs up front, and the 11" drums out back. It never had a problem stopping at the two local strips I raced at. My old '71 will lock 'em up with no problems at all, but I've never had to lock them up to stop at the strip.
Nopw if you build a Camaro that runs 150 MPH in the 1/4, then you might use the whole shutdown area to get her stopped with stock brakes. But heck, that's what chutes are for!
Nopw if you build a Camaro that runs 150 MPH in the 1/4, then you might use the whole shutdown area to get her stopped with stock brakes. But heck, that's what chutes are for!
#14
03-15-2010, 01:12 PM
Well the last time i made my own and it went through the floor and i welded the floor to them all the way back. This time i was hoping to go under floor. Someone at work told me about some that bolt in and after bolted weld them. I prefer to weld them in. I think it toughens the body up a little. Not putting a roll cage in it (at liest not for now). Motor is going to at liest have 400 if not 500 hp.
#15
03-15-2010, 03:31 PM
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Portland, Or
Posts: 9,097
I've heard that Competition Engineering bolt on are pretty good, and can be welded afterwards if you want. I personally am not a fan of welding in the subframe connectors to the front subframe. I'd hate to have an accident and end up chopping them out in order to pull the front subframe and change it out.
One of the positives in having removeable subframes is that ability, and it's lost with weld on subframe connectors.
One of the positives in having removeable subframes is that ability, and it's lost with weld on subframe connectors.
#16
03-17-2010, 10:26 PM
I've heard that Competition Engineering bolt on are pretty good, and can be welded afterwards if you want. I personally am not a fan of welding in the subframe connectors to the front subframe. I'd hate to have an accident and end up chopping them out in order to pull the front subframe and change it out.
One of the positives in having removeable subframes is that ability, and it's lost with weld on subframe connectors.
One of the positives in having removeable subframes is that ability, and it's lost with weld on subframe connectors.
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