Waiting for spring test tool from Summit and spring specs from Crower, I had a look at the cylinders.
I knew they were so-so but hoped to save them and leave them alone.
But some are marked so much that I guess I should have them reamed over. I measured them with a mere caliper at 4.010" and don't seem really round.
At this point with everything accessible, I guess it's a good time to get in deeper. (I started with just a new paint on the engine in mind!)
I can find pistons from 80$ up to 500,$. What is the more decent pistons one can use without cutting corners and breaking the bank?

 

People use hypereutectic pistons if not wanting to go the extra dough for forged
The stock pistons were cast aluminum unless it was a hotrod engine with high compression
Unless you are going racing a flat top cast piston will do
If you want to stand on it for minutes on end, then go with forged

 

Thank you.
I am going to a local machine shop so he can have a look at the engine and I will have him re assemble it (at least the shafts rods and pistons) so he'll advise how to further proceed...

 

Pay close attention down there (at the machine shop)
Those boys are usually damn smart
Building a Boss motor back in the mid eighties...
Machine shop guy kept asking me what did I want to run as clearances?
Did not really know at the time what the hell he meant, or was asking
He was just asking if I was going racing or not, and did I want the motor set up loose (for racing) or tight (for longevity)
Ended setting it up quite loose and run a HV oil pump with no oil pressure relief in the cam galleys IIRR
Still runs and I do stomp on it every chance I get

 

It should not be too difficult. I started with a running engine with nothing wrong, just I took off the head to paint the block and heads and noticed the decks were not really nice (could have live with it) but the cylinders are really not nice so we are going to "only" ream them a bit and put in there new larger pistons (+.020" should be enough)
Will check next monday with him what else to replace. He said at a minimum rod bolts and bearing inserts...
We'll check shafts and rods, hopefully can still use them. And have heads and block surfaced.
Not a complete rebuild...
He's also rebuilding a Ford FE for me (he's the 3rd !!! machine shop on this engine) so hopefully he knows what he's doing, for now I can't tell.

 

Ream? Sounds like a rebore job if 0.20 over.

 

Yes that is what I meant ...

 

What kind of compressed height should I end up with on springs?

 

1.70 inches

 

Isn't it the closed height?
I mean 1.700" is for the seat/closed valve dimension.
What I need is an average open valve, compressed spring height. I know this depends on camshat's lift, but just need an average.
I measured the springs (2 different length) at 1.700", I have 60 Lbs and 125Lbs pressure....
Would like to measure compressed.
I saw that it's around .5" lift. Then I should end with a compressed height of 1.2" but the measuring tool I received start at 1.5" !?