Anyone tried using 67 console gauges with modern internals?
#1
Anyone tried using 67 console gauges with modern internals?
I'm struggling with a reproduction 67 console gauge package. It includes OEM-spec versions of fuel/temp/oil/amp gauges. I've gotten all the gauges to work, but the manufacturer (OER) is pretty unclear about what the sweep range of each gauge is (i.e. what the min/max values are supposed to be).
Note, I've replace the original (numbers matching) 327 with a custom built 383 with all modern equipment. So, some of the temps, pressures, etc. won't be 'normal' for what they were in 67.
As a result, the temp guage reads off the side of 'H' at 180F (as indicated by a temp gun on the intake at the sender location) or so.
The amp guage always reads discharge (more if more stuff is on, less if less, but always negative). Note, the voltage at the batt terminals is nearly 15 volts so my one-wire, internally regulated alternator is working and charging the battery.
My (mechanical) oil pressure gauge always reads 'H' at anything other than idle, and then comes about 1/8 off from 'H'. I'm guessing my oil pressure (with high volume pump) is somewhere around 50-60 PSI, but that's only a guess and I'd like the gauge to tell me for sure.
In summary, I really wanted the original look to the gauges, but I'd really like the internals to be modern and have known/well-calibrated operation.
Has anyone successfully swapped the guts of their console gauges with modern internals?
Thanks in advance guys,
Mitch
Note, I've replace the original (numbers matching) 327 with a custom built 383 with all modern equipment. So, some of the temps, pressures, etc. won't be 'normal' for what they were in 67.
As a result, the temp guage reads off the side of 'H' at 180F (as indicated by a temp gun on the intake at the sender location) or so.
The amp guage always reads discharge (more if more stuff is on, less if less, but always negative). Note, the voltage at the batt terminals is nearly 15 volts so my one-wire, internally regulated alternator is working and charging the battery.
My (mechanical) oil pressure gauge always reads 'H' at anything other than idle, and then comes about 1/8 off from 'H'. I'm guessing my oil pressure (with high volume pump) is somewhere around 50-60 PSI, but that's only a guess and I'd like the gauge to tell me for sure.
In summary, I really wanted the original look to the gauges, but I'd really like the internals to be modern and have known/well-calibrated operation.
Has anyone successfully swapped the guts of their console gauges with modern internals?
Thanks in advance guys,
Mitch
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