Inst Cluster with Gauges, then try this one:

 

Notice that the gauge package indicated above still has the GEN light. That light is required for charging to take place it is the exciter for the Generator (alternator). With out that bulb the system will not charge. If it is burned out or defective in some way your not going to have a proper charging circuit. Alternative would be to go to a alternator that would not require that bulb to charge the system..

 

Looking at that schematic makes more sense I have to full build manual from start to finish from 1967 but it didn't include the schematic for the console. Thank you both for the comments, I will remove the console this weekend and look into that to see if continuity is bad. Thank you again. I worked on it tonight and removed the alternator and it spun way to free compared to new so I replaced but it didn't start to charge unless I reved it up hard. So I think what your saying is the problem. Thank you again I will keep you posted!

 

On an external reg'd Delco 10DN charging design, the GEN light is a parallel path with a length of resistance wire.
IGN switch supplies battery power to one side of light, VR supplies power to the other side of light making the GEN light go out.
Even if light burns out, charging system will still work.

 

In actuality the light completes the circuit and triggers the exciter on the alternator. If the filament in the bulb is broken the exciter does not get triggered. I don't know why Gm did it that way I bypassed the whole mess with a single wire alternator with built in regulator.. Mine works perfectly and I got rid of a lot of pieces that way.

 

Thank you all for all the posts! Everett your wiring schematic for Instrument Panels Gauges led me to the answer! I found the black wire fusible link to orange that was supposed to land on the junction block was not even hooked up. I hooked it up and the battery is charging when reving over 1000 RPM. If it is idling at 500 it doesn't but as soon as I rev it up it starts steadily rising to 13.8 when I let off. I have been driving the car all over for the past 4-5 years, how on earth it never ran out of juice has me wondering. But all is well now. Thank you again everyone for all the help!

 

You're welcome. As you described, the charging system is working as designed.
No charge at idle, but starting at 1000, charging.

Think of the options back then, no ECU/ECM/PCM, no electronic ignition, AM radio if option box was selected, battery supplied power at idle.

Glad to read you are back on the road again, as Willie would say.

 

I would like to add that I tried the Borg Warner Regulator and it was humming and buzzing after the first day and upon examination of the internal guts it wasn't manufactured properly. I tried to bend the contacts where they needed to go but that only lasted for 2 hours of drive time. I replace with the Wells VR715 and it worked even better. I was running 13.7 volts with headlights on. The highest I saw with the other regulator was 12.45 with the headlights on. Just for reference for others who have had these issues with humming and buzzing on the regulator.

 

When a mechanical regulator is humming, it needs adjustment as it is right at the edge.
VR adjustment is done with the VR hot, meaning drive it for 10-20 miles.
Feel the cover, should be around 130°F.
Rev and hold engine at 2000 rpm.
Make voltage measurement at battery posts or alt BATT stud.
Remove VR cover and notice change in voltage, usually 0.5 volts less.
Now adjust field coil for a voltage reading for the desired temperature - generally, 130° = equals 13.6 volts with no accessories on - don't forget temp drop and account for same.
Install VR cover letting VR temp stabilize and adjust accordingly.

Also, vehicles in this time period were customed tuned.
Once a week, battery was checked for acid level - remember, batteries back then were delivered dry and filled with electrolyte and charged 24 hours before usage.
If battery needed water, then overcharging - turned down VR.
If battery was always low on charge as in needing a jump start, undercharge - turn up VR.
Every VR was adjusted for its own daily usage.

 

Maybe this is a dumb question but what exactly are you adjusting on the regulator, the distance between the two contacts on the single pole side or something else?