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Old 10-17-2016, 10:36 PM
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Default New to forum/Shift kit questions

First of all I better say hi to everyone and give a shout out for my new 68 Camaro.

Problem- The tranny seemed to hit way to hard for me when shifted into gear so I swapped it out for a B&M shift kit(street setup). After the swap the tranny will shift 1st to 2nd then will over rev like it is kicking out of gear . Decided to go back to the original setup but with the same result. I have had the pan off three times changing the bearing positions in the throttle body. Changed modulator , adjustment changes on the B&M quick silver. Fluid levels. Disconnected the kick down switch.Not sure what direction to go next.I should of left it alone. TH400 three speed with what I believe is a trans tec shift kit. Hope someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks Doug
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Old 10-18-2016, 08:21 AM
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Welcome, Ninja
First to say: Correct year
First item on the list is go buy a book from ATSG on your transmission
https://www.atsg.us/atsg/ - either from the site or a local trans shop.
Excellent instruction book and has an exploded views and good tech specs.

Kickdown switch is only for a forced WOT downshift.
Modulator controls 'when' the upshift happens as determined by pedal position - vacuum tells the load - light throttle, sooner upshifts; heavy throttle, later upshifts.

I would go back to OE design and start from there.
Fairbanks makes excellent shift kits from my experience.
If second gear not happening, clutches burnt - oil smell would smell burnt, or servo band needs adjustment, maybe, but not likely.
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Old 10-18-2016, 06:45 PM
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Do you know what kind of shift kit you had before? Sounds like it may have had a street/strip or full strip set up. This involves drilling/enlarging some of the holes on the separator plate, and odds are the valve body may have been modified as well; drilled, tapped, valves altered. Installing a milder shift kit isn't going to help if you are using the same separator plate and altered valve body, since you can't un-drill holes.
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Old 10-19-2016, 01:06 PM
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I ended up going back to the original setup . The gasket says transtec on it so I assume it is their reprogramer kit. I set the shift kit back to how it was so the hole sizes in the plate are not an issue . Same as before!!. something must be different but I cant put my finger on it. The trany runs through the gears just fine at normal speeds but misses 2nd at WOT then when letting of the gas it is in 3rd gear. Linkage adjustment???? thanks Doug
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Old 10-19-2016, 01:19 PM
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Only linkage adjustment would be for shifter cable.
Switch on throttle is for forced downshift at WOT.

Might be the governor.
Pop off the round cover and pull governor straight out and ensure weights and center rod move and no chipped gear teeth- or borrow replace it.
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Old 10-19-2016, 04:33 PM
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I didn't check the governor because I never fudged with it during the change, but I will take a look at it.
sorry for the ignorance but what purpose does the governor serve????
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:10 PM
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Governor pressure increases with vehicle speed controlling upshifts.
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:08 AM
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I will pull the Gov and see if I can spot a problem with it, maybe their is debris in it causing to not open under throttle or like you said the plastic gear may be shot. Ill post the results when done. thanks.
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:04 PM
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Sorry for bustin into an old thread, but I could use some help on a question. I have a '67 327 /power glide set up. Building the motor now at the shop and going to swap a T350 I picked up from a guy who was swapping to a 5 speed manual. The tranny was rebuilt at some point and came out of a '69 Chevelle with a 454 in it. I'm going to have it checked out anyway, but my question is this ... does anybody know the "ballpark" of the stall speed of a stock converter? I'm looking to buy a higher stall speed converter and was just wondering what stock was. I mean, I'd hate to buy a 2200-2800 stall converter if I really would be happier with a 2600-3200 -- you know what I mean? I'm probably going to run something like 3.42s in the rear end. The motor will have about 375-385 hp and the car is pretty much stock weight (whatever that may be) so nothing really special, just want to have a little fun with the car.
I did this a whole bunch of years ago when I built my first Camaro - a 73 LT/RS with a 425 hp 358 ci motor and a B&M T 350 and it was running 3.42s -
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Old 04-06-2017, 09:37 AM
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OE convertors typically are at 1000-1200 rpm stall.
My suggestion is a 3000-3500 stall.
Aftermarket mfrs could give you a suggestion on stall.
Most convertors should match torque peak as convertors multiply torque.
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