The problem they had with mono spring rear ends .Is with cars like the SS 350 cars especially with a four speed .The springs would wrap up and cause wheel hop.That is one of the reason why they went to multi leaf springs and staggered shocks.And since you are going to put a high horsepower big block I would at least a 1968 Camaro SS 396 setup to start. Remember its bolt in and you can always change it back to stock.

 

For sure. Thanks Zspoiler. That is definitely the way to do it. The Nova rear end is a multi leaf spring setup, so I'll just run with that same thought process. It's not like my car is anything special. So RestoMod is the way I'm going with things.


Thanks for the heads up.

 

Just had the 8.5" 10 bolt built. 3.42 gears and a Yukon posi unit. New bearings, gaskets, etc. Axles were good. Sand blasted and painted with chassis paint. Going to add a nice cover (eventually) - it's NOT going to go in the car before Hot August Nights due to the break in period for the warranty. I've never heard of such nonsense, but will do it so the warranty is good.
25 miles - then stop for an hour (to cool down) - then do that 4 more times. (that's a whole day) then don't go over 65 mph for the next 400 miles. Just local around town driving. At 500 miles drain it. Put in new gear oil (and a cover if you want to) and THEN you can do what ever you want. You can beat the snot out of it, but NOT before the 500 miles. Hmmmmm I've "never" done that on any other rear end I've had built. But this is only my 3rd one now that I think about it.
Oh well. For my Winter project, I'll be swapping out the rear end, leaf springs, 4 wheel disc brake kit, front pro-touring suspension and then running it hard to make sure that all works.

 

May I suggest for the three bolts holding the front spring eye bracket, they are screwed into 50 year old J-nuts, the nuts can come loose from the steel clip, upon installing the bolts, smear on some antiseize onto the bolt threads and maybe a cotton swab into the J-nuts, as you will appreciate it later in life.

If the nuts do come loose from the clip, the bolt will continue turning, you can replace with a J-clip from McMaster-Carr, largest hardware store in the world, or drill a 1 inch hole above the nut/bolt, and use a regular nut and lockwasher. The rear seat bottom covers the holes as well as carpet.

I also got a couple flea market 9/16 inch boxend wrenches and bent them to use into the slots on the sides for holding the crimped nut. Two different lengths are needed, hence, the two wrenches. Easy to bend, clamp in vise, heat the length needed on shank with propane or map gas to cherry red, then bend with pliers. Let cool.

Good luck.

 

For sure. Thanks for the tip Everett.
I bought the Hotchkis 3" lowered leaf springs and they come with the "other" end hardware. I'll make sure I get a couple of wrenches to bend to shape. Anything to make it easier.