My 69 small block car sits about an inch to an inch and half to high. It had new coils in it when I got it and an aluminum head motor so the 70-80 lbs. less weight in the motor doesn't help either. Question is, what spring to put in and get the right height without needing to do this more than once. I feel the springs ride too soft and bounce a little too much but that could also be due to not enough weight in the motor as they were designed for. Next question is, many say they have a spring with a 1" or 2" drop but they don't provide a ride height measurement from the hub center to the fender lip. I will also be pulling the A-arms off and installing new bushings and want to go with something that is closest to F-41 suspension, tighter than stock. Also will be adding a rear bar as the car has a larger front bar than stock now. Just want to do it right the first time.

 

I would go with HOTCHKIS 1907F SPRINGS (2" Drop).
They are 600 lb springs, so they will probably be stiffer that what you have.
Height measurements may be a bit different on each car depending upon options; A/C, aluminum heads, etc, etc.

 

thanks, have you used these springs in your car? Mine is a no air small block with alum heads and a 1.5 to 2.0 inch drop would probably be fine without any tire issues.

 

Yes, I am running those springs... I rebuilt my front end last summer; Hotchkis springs, Hotchkis sway bar, PST poly control arm bushings, IROC steering box, new tie rods, MOOG offset upper control arm shafts, Bilstein shocks, etc, etc....

 

you would not happen to know the measurement in the front from the center of the wheel hub to the lip of the fender?

 

No, and the car is in storage now so I can't take a measurement.

 

I have the Hotchkis front anti-sway.... it sounds like you have the equivalent with the bigger bar. Not sure.. Another option is to replace the stock control arms with tubular and use adjustable coil overs. I used SpeedTech upper and lower tubulars and Viking double adjustable coil overs to lower my 68 about 2". The ability to adjust ride height, shock compression and rebound provides a lot of options. I know its more money, but you will love the flexibility. Viking is a company that is largely now staffed with former QA1 folks.

 

Another thought to greatly improve stability, if you have not already considered, are sub-frame connectors. I used the Hotchkis connectors, but other manufacturers produced them as well. This addition plus the rear anti-sway made a big difference in the handling on my 68.. FYI... measurement from center of the wheel to fender lip which does have the chrome trim is 13.75".... I have 15" wheels....