I took a video for you guys. I was tired last night and saw it had .020" of slop and not a quarter inch after double checking :P

 

the screw was hitting the pickup and lifting the dizzy shaft up each time it hit. what kind of side play does it have now. i would assume it pushed the shaft to the side as well. is the wear on the cam only on one side?

 

You say screws for the new cap (I presume you meant rotor), and that they "would be hitting". Would be (future) doesn't mean were (past). Was it run this way?

 

Oh, and to the end play, that distributor isn't "sloppy". Stock Chevy distributors want around .012-.015 of end play, yet some aftermarket manufacturers recommend .020. You don't want the play set too tight, as the aluminum housing can expand from heat at a different and greater rate than the steel shaft will. I would check with what MSD recommends for theirs, since it's a billet, not cast aluminum housing.

 

Oh yeah, one more thing. When the engine is running, the angle of the gears forces the distributor shaft in the UP position. Even with those rotor mount screws snagging, it wouldn't be pulling the shaft any higher, as it's already all the way up. Any tweaking going on would happen with what's directly below the distributor cap.

 

There isnt any side play that I could feel. and the cam wear was on all of the lobes, and it wasnt straight. It definitely looked like the cam had been moving back and forth. All the lifters looked ok though.

It must have been run this way looking at how it was worn. And yes I meant rotor :P

Hmm, maybe a combination of the gears not meshing properly and the pickup being messed up could have caused my issue.

 

One more thing.....ok I lied earlier. Taking the ideas as they pop outta my head!
If your block has been decked, or the heads shaved as well as the intake to match, your intake manifold will be sitting lower on the block, and the distributor will be riding lower into the oil pump shaft. Make sure you have a little up and down play once the distributor is all buttoned down. If there was zero or less than zero play once installed, you've got a wedgy causing too much resistance, and that too can chew up your gears.

 

Socom,

Where I Maryland are you from?

The reason I ask, I live in PA and know a very good engine builder that could help you figure out what is going on. He also does 4 speed transmissions as well if you had any questions.

He lives in the York area, I could give you his contact info if you are interested.

 

I live 20 mins south of baltimore, but I'm up in carlisle a few times for shows. I have a 4 speed rebuild on the way, and I can handle that. I think I've got the engine figured out too, I'll probably put a cam button on and check everything 3 times before it goes back in the car.

A bunch of parts should be showing up tomorrow, along with a new timing cover, new plug wires, and all new gaskets. If I get my heads back tomorrow I should be able to get the motor back together.

 

Finally got my heads back! This weekend I am reassembling everything and hopefully firing it up tomorrow. With this new set up 8000 rpm should be reachable