Hi all. I recently got a 67 project with a big block and manual trans, originally a small block automatic. I don't know the car's history, but from what I can see, it might have been an unfinished project. There is no wiring in the engine bay, and some components appear to be missing. I want to wire the engine externally and see if it cranks. I have a couple of questions about this:
1- The ignition coil is missing, how do I know what type of ignition coil I should get? (Please check the attached images for reference)
2- The resistor is still there, but I am not sure if it is good. Do I need to get a new one just in case?
3- Looking at the attached images, Do I need anything else to start the engine?
4- Are there any recommended easy wiring steps/diagrams to wire and start the engine using an external push-button start?

Thank you

 

Electrical.
If you just want to just see if it run for 10 to 30 seconds Just run a 12 volt wire to the positive side of the coil. On the starter you will have either 2 or 3 connectors (stock would have had 3) If there is just two, one large one small. I would get a remote starter switch, they are either squeeze or button type. They sell them at all parts stores Amazon, harbor freight. If you have 3 connectors just ignore the one with an "I" the I is for ignition, you don't need that. If the starter is hard to read dont worry you will not hurt anything if you accidently hooked to it. Just switch to the other connector. The I by passed the normal 9V so the coil see 12V during start up.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1224v-...tch-70597.html

Coils from back then were pretty standard. If you get a GM coil from any pre HEI (1975) GM car it will work. Stock ones will be around 12,000 max volts. I have seen these in the help section of chain parts store. The performance ones they sell will go up to 18,000 volts. They are harder on the points and would be worth it with that big block if you decide to keep the points. I would not.

If you want to run it longer.
Step one pop that distributer cap and see if the is a stock points or Accel electronic. If it the Accel electronic then you need the full 12 volts. If you have points you need to end up with around 9 volts. You can do this a lot of ways but if you just want to make a quick jumper.

I got to be honest that motor has seen some weather. I think it going to take a lot to get it running. Your smart to do the quick test first. Have you done all the other stuff that needs to be done BEFORE you try to crank it? Is the motor free? Without the right precautions you can make a motor that could come back to life into about $80 worth of scrap metal.

 

Hi Gorn. Thank you for this detailed reply, I appreciate it.

The only thing I checked so far was the engine oil, which was surprisingly good. Can you recommend a list of other things that must be done before I try to crank it?
I am not sure if the Motor is free yet, I will have to check.

 

Well for one I'd pull all the spark plugs and get some oil in the cylinders and let it soak in for a while, maybe some marvel mystery oil or similar that will penetrate and loosen up any stuck rings.
Let it soak at least overnight if not a day or two.
Then try to spin the motor over a few times with the plugs still out to move the oil up and down the cylinder walls and loosen up the rings as well as purge excess oil out of the plug holes.
That should also prime the oil pump so you're not dry starting the engine and waiting for oil to start flowing.
A motor sitting a long time will undoubtedly have some rust in it and without lubing things up first starting it can cause a lot of damage.
It'll smoke for a while after it starts until it burns off the oil added to the cylinders but hopefully that will clear up after a bit.
I'd let it run for a while getting it up to operating temperature then shut it down and do an oil change.

 

Before cranking with a starter try to turn the motor over manually. You can use a breaker bar on the vibration damper, sometimes you can get it my just turning the fan to belt. This normally requires you use your hand to push down on the belt to tighten it up. With a big block there is not much chance of doing by hand. It is also easier to do with the plugs out.

If there is rust on the cylinder wall around the ring the starter can break it loose, but starters can be very torque you can break the ring land on the piston and have that dig into the cylinder wall. I have also seen the starter just break off the fly wheel teeth instantly. Pull plugs, you can use penetrating oil or ATF. ATF will break up rust almost as well as penetrating fluid. Next day turn engine over by hand 2 revolutions just to be sure.

If you are not in a rush check out a show called "Vise grip Garage" on youtube. It is pretty entertaining. A large percentage of his videos is him rescuing cars that have been sitting, he then drives them home. Sometimes 100's of miles.
Vice Grip Garage - YouTube

Start here

 

Thank you both for the super helpful information! Appreciate it. I think I know what to do now.

And yes, I do watch Vise Grip Garage, I learn a lot from him. Pretty amazing

 

Good luck with it and keep us posted.

 

Disconnect the power steering pump. I see it is missing the caps and if there is rust in there you could ruin a perfectly good steering box.

 

• For the ignition coil, choose one compatible with your big block and the type of ignition system (points or electronic). Match it to the distributor type.
• Replace the resistor if you’re unsure; it's inexpensive and crucial for the ignition system.
• You'll need a battery, starter relay, spark plug wires, and temporary fuel source.
• Use a basic wiring diagram for external starting: connect the battery to the starter and ignition, with a push-button for cranking.
• Check all connections thoroughly and have a fire extinguisher handy before testing!

 

Hi all, thanks for the extra tips!
so I put some Marvel mystery oil in the spark plug holes, waited a few days, and turned the engine by hand! it turns

I checked my points distributor and it doesn't look the best. The centrifugal advance mechanism needs springs replaced, and the lead wire is cut so I'll replace that, and the point doesn't look that great but I can probably sand it a bit just for the test. I don't plan on keeping the points distributor in the future, so I'll probably swap it with an electronics one after I ensure the engine runs. I am taking it slow as I am learning through the process.