I am looking at machine work on a 350 block and heads and want some opinions as to what a fair cost would be.

Block will be decked and aligned, converted to 4 bolt mains, honed or bored 020

Heads will be opened to 2.20 with angle valve prep

Intake matched to block

All parts hot tanked and fluxed

 

I have never been a big fan of this convertion. You should find a 4 bolt block. The four bolt blocks have a thicker webing and are stronger. Just adding a 4 bolt cap to a 2 bolt block does not make your engine as stong as a original 4 bolt. In fact, some people will argure, but I have been told that cap is not the weak point and adding the 4 bolts does nothing to improve the rigity of the lower end.

It will be tuff to give you and accurate number I mean just the 30 mile area around me i would guess with a 3 angle valve job you would somewhere between 1K to 2K.

Since you had to ask the question I would suggest you look into a crate motor.

 

Crate engines cost waaayyyyy more in general then if you work with a builder. My 383 cost me 2500, and it makes good power. Although, thats with used heads(Which were ported and are good as new, but for the obvious wear any used things have) And a used block, that was bored, and nottched for the extra stroke. I got a stroker kit, which made it slightly more then building just a 350, because I got everything at once. So, do research! its worth it! A crate would be thousands more. Just figure out what works best for you

And, if you find a good engine builder, who can order parts, you can talk to him about what YOU want to see prom preformance, and he can use his knowlege to make it happen. Just be smart about it.

 

Not really meaning to get into an arguement on this but there are several views on the 4 bolt 2 bolt thing. First I am not aware that the actual block webbing is thinner in the 2 bolt vrs the 4 bolt my example would be the standard 010 block casting was made in both the two bolt and the 4 bolt I dont believe you can tell a 350 2 or 4 bolt block from the casting # so how would gm choose differnt blocks? The advantage in the 4 bolt block is not the bottom end of the block but the ability to reduce cap walk and hold the caps in place "clamping force". Adding the 4 bolt splayed cap to a 2 bolt block makes the original two bolt block stronger than the factory 4 boltbecause the bolts do not take as much of the webbing material away as in a conventional 4 bolt setup. Horsepower capabilities generally goes 2 bolt, 4 bolt straight, splayed 4 bolt. My personal opinion is that if you are going through the cost of the splayed caps and the machining required I would spend another $400 or so and go to an aftermarket block its alot stronger allows more cubes and is a better foundation. If not I agree with gorn in the end get a 4 bolt its cheaper. I was going to list the machining cost I have had but this list is close its cheaper than what I experience and it doesnt include a few things that will be added I am sure...http://www.gregsengine.com/prices.htm

 

Start with a used 4 bolt main
Dip the block to clean it
Magnafux the block and heads for cracks
Line bore the crank journals
Bore out the cylinders
Line bore out the cam bearings
Deck the block
Sleeve with lifters

Surface the heads
Re-machine the valve seats
Replace the valve guides

Re-machine the intake to match the new deck height

Buy all the new parts you need ($?)

Spend about 8 hour porting and polishing heads

Spend about 4 hours balancing everything
About 8 hour to assemble
Another 4 hours to match up your head port job to the intake.

Or for $3700 for a 330 HP 350 pan to carb complete setup with a warranty..

Don’t get me wrong I have put the $600 kits in 350’s for less then a $1000 but I would not call that a complete rebuild by any stretchy of the imagination. One man trying to re-machine a complete engine, every wear surface, can spend 40-60 hours of machining. No way can he compete with an assembly line. Unless the labor is free or he takes a lot of short cuts.

I have built race engines. I have spent 60 hours in one set of heads but for the average person a crate motor is the way to go.

 

If you go with the 4 boltsplayed main caps i think its stronger than a stock4 bolt. Alot of drag racers get the splayed caps and put on a 2 bolt block and it holds up great. I would also get it ballanced it will last alot longer

 

I have found date correct heads, a block and intake to rebuild this 350 as close as original as possible. I am not looking for huge horsepower, I want it to be strong and accurate, maybe 300-350 hp is fine. I realize the crate motor is the simple way and maybe cheaper, but I have been revitalizing this car and have already spent 1400 just on chrome/stainless trim. I have 500 into the block/heads/intake. I think it is a good start for the money.

 

Thats why i say go with the splayed 4 boltmain caps. They are stronger than stock 4 bolt and you can still use your block.
Hear they are on summit to give you an idea
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku

 

Splayed caps for 300 to 350 hp is a total waste of money the 2 bolt will be fine. We run a garage built 350 two bolt main with better then that power nearly every weekend the shift light is set at 5800 and the rev limiter at 6250 its bounce off the limiter numerous times it has better than 40 runs on it it isnt even balanced.

 

I know a stock 2 bolt will hold up but he mentioned putting 4 bolt caps on and someone else said just buy a 4bolt. I just threw it out their. 300-350 isn't alot of horse power i wouldn't bother doing anything either but if you want 4 bolt go with them. I wouldn't worry about it cause my Trans am is over 350 hp and its still stock bottom end with 165,000 milesand i beat it every day.I have a 383 stroker inmy 69 camaro and its got alot done to itand wasdyno'd at over 600 hp and thats only 2 bolt still holds up fine.