Well..you see it went like this..

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  #21  
Old 07-23-2012, 06:00 AM
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I had a 302 with the 30/30 cam in it and you are right, it has a nice sound. I also had 4.11 gears in my 12 bolt and even though the car was dead down low, you run up those rpm's and that little motor came alive, big time!

Indexing the sparks plugs is more for racing, and your correct, the cup shaped washer in different thicknesses and you mark on the plug which way the electrode is facing and you find the washer that gives you the correct alignment. I don't think you'd really need that for the street though.

Sounds like a fun car.
 
  #22  
Old 07-23-2012, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 69toyfordad
The seller told me only to tighten the plugs(if removed) till the mark is at 12o'clock. He said if I tightened them any further, they might hit the pistons. This is all new to me. Perhaps someone here on the forum can jump in and help out here?
Not only is indexing the plugs for performance reasons, it's also done to give extra clearance if the engine has high domed pistons.
A possible plug-to-piston clearance issue is what the sellers comment was suggesting there, so I wouldn't deviate from his directions.
 
  #23  
Old 07-24-2012, 09:09 AM
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Nice car! Running the valves isn't too bad. I've got solid lifters too and yes, you'll want to run an additive for your solid lift cam. I get mine from a local shop Detroit Performance Center- The Online Source for High Performance Engines, Parts and Accessoires

Since your engine is new, I'd give it about 5,000 miles and then switch over to synthetic. Also, watch your oil level because with a new engine, you'll likely go through a few quarts until your rings fully seat. When they do, you'll feel a bit extra umph at the gas pedal and you'll stop going through oil.

Just make sure when you run your valves that you have a good set of feeler gauges. If you've never done a set before, you might want to have a buddy that's ran valves give you a hand.

As far as running a set of new gears, all you'll need is a ring and pinion. Like yourself, I had 4:11's and I couldn't stand it. Now I have 3:73's and with my modified turbo 350 transmission, I stroll down the highway at 62 mpg right at 3100 rpm. Perfect for the way my engine is built.

The ring and pinion don't cost that much, but it's the labor that will get you. Also, dont' forget to put in a new spedo gear so your speedometer is right. In all, and depending on if they need to put in seals etc, you should be able to get the rear end done, parts and labor for around a grand or 1200.
 

Last edited by StoveBolts; 07-24-2012 at 09:11 AM.
  #24  
Old 07-27-2012, 01:15 AM
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There realy is no best polish or wax for any car. The claims are made from what they have in lab tests. What works on one car may not work on another. I have 2 sets of waxes and polishes for my cars. I found what worked best for both of them by trying new ones out.
 
  #25  
Old 07-28-2012, 03:09 PM
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This forum rocks!! Thanks for all of the compliments and advice.
I have a bunch of receipts from Camaro Centeral. Gave them a call. Talked to Shawn. He knows the car! The prior owner had purchased many parts from them while restoring this car over the past 2 years. Great place. Shawn called me back about an order I had placed and helped me order the correct parts.
I do have another question..The car has a new correct Hurst shifter including arms, clips, bushings etc. Rebuilt trans. Problem is the shifter hits the console in 2nd and 4th gears. Not hard, and it does stay in gear, just rattles as it does contact the console. Is there a way to adjust the entire shifter so it is angled farther ahead? Will I have to adjust each of the arms? Could use a little advice here. Thanks in advance.
I love the tuxedo Black paint. It is new and I do not want all of the "swirls" that I am sure will show up when I give it a good washing. A friend told me that McGuires makes a compound that will remove swirls. #7 I think he said? Anyone know about this stuff?
Going to a car show next weekend. I am not sure if I will enter the car or not. It has the correct DZ motor, but it is not the original one.
Also, I have found insurance for it. Cost is $371.00 yr. Agreed value of $40K, zero deductable. I am allowed 1K miles year. Have to keep it in a locked garage(no problem). I can drive anytime not restricted to just shows. I can drive over to the A&W for a root beer if I want. Cannot drive it to work every day. For slightly more I can drive it 5K miles. Is that a good proce to pay? I live in Vermont and this is a seasional hobby. I will put it up in the fall(darn). Must be nice to be able to drive year round..Oh well, Love to tinker, and will have all winter.
Thanks again for all of the great comments and advice.. Love this forum..just seeing/reading about all of the nice cars and what others are doing..69toy4dad.
 
  #26  
Old 08-08-2012, 05:29 PM
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Everyone loved the car at the show. Won first place.
enjoying the ride.
 
  #27  
Old 08-10-2012, 03:47 PM
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I had a turbo 350 trans with 3.73 gears. Seems that trans only came with a 3.42 max gear so the speedo gear was off slightly. Not sure if yours has auto or manual trans. But u can get a speedo adapter if u look around.
 
  #28  
Old 08-10-2012, 10:20 PM
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I use Lucas slick mist on my car. Love the stuff. But that's just my opinion.lots of good products out there for a great shine
 
  #29  
Old 08-24-2012, 05:24 PM
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Hello, I am wondering if it is possible to determine the build date by the VIN?
My vin is: 124379N613621. I am assuming that the numbers after the "N" are the sequential build numbers. Can someone tell me where to find this information or perhaps decode it for me?
I know that it is possible to determine the build date for C2 corvettes with the sn. to within a day or so. Is it the same for the camaro? Thanks in advance.
 
  #30  
Old 09-04-2012, 12:54 AM
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JUNKER (JUNKER) when I have my home, I did not sleep for a month, I bring the Z28 to go home, I will still walking zombie. Enjoy it!
 



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