i didnt unplug my VR i just unhooked my alt as instructed and ran the large wire.
not sure if you need the vr or not?
but as far as chargeing the battery with one wire this way works!!
my chevelle is set up the same way.

 

Sounds like the easiest way for me to go. I like it when things are simple

 

Hi Jeff,

it looks like you got some good direction in this thread from these experienced folk.

I noticed that you were using the shrink wrap to make the wires look neater.
Heat shrink is a wonderful concept. It is invaluable when covering joints and splices in an electrical harness.

The one draw back it has especially when used in large sections is that is becomes hard and inflexible when heated and shrunk. Even if you choose not to apply heat initially, engine heat will do the job for you.

You may want to consider using it on wire juntions and useing tape to keep the mass of wires together as they did originaly. This way you have a flexible harness and one that looks neater. Taping wire harness is a lot easier than it looks...mostly it requires a little patience..and it has many advantages over using heats-shrink to hide the wires....flexibility, easier to remove if necessary, etc.

You can insert the tape-wraped harness into a loom if you like that look.

Just a thought.

Vic

 

That's a good heads-up on the shrink tubing. Also know that factory wire loom "tape" is non-adhesive, you don't use electrical tape if you're after the right look (and flexibility). You can buy the loom tape in a roll, from resto companies. I've restored old Vette harnesses to like new condition this way.
I also switched my 69 over to a one wire alternator, and yes, you don't use the original voltage regulator (for it's intended purpose anyway). The red battery wire on the junction block runs over and connects to the external voltage regulator (also used as a junction). The big hot line (orange) from the alternator goes to the V.R. to interconnect with that battery wire. If those wires are still in good shape, you can use them with the new one wire alternator, using a junction block in place of the V.R. if you want to. That orange alt. wire also branches off mid-line to power the horn relay. The other two alternator wires (the plug) also run to the V.R., and aren't used with the one wire alt.

 

Good stuff guys! I'll take that shrink wrap off this weekend. Glad you brought that to my attention.
As far as the factory tape, I actually scored a whole role of that someplace, sometime ago. Musta picked it up at a flea market or something, I don't know... but I got it! LOL

Thanks for every ones input!

 

Well, I think I got all that sorted out this weekend so I'm happy :-) Well, kinda. I got all my lights and turn signals working after a lot of rewiring and replacing the light switch. Well, everything worked great until I tested the 4 ways, then I lost the whole right side turn signals and parking lamps. Just one more piece to replace lol. Gotta love an old car. Ohh, found out the blower motor isn't working either. Hey, it worked 7 or 8 years ago. There's another thing on the list. Will it ever end?

However, I still don't have a fusible link... and here's what I was thinking. Remember that picture where all four "Hots" were bolted together? Well, I saw a 100 amp, and a 150 amp circuit breaker that I could bolt right to the rad support that would clean up that mess pretty quick, and look good.

What do you guys think?

 

Good thought, but not a good idea. Fusible links are slow-blow, and are designed to be able to take at least a momentary surge without blowing. They blow thermally (by overheating), not by a quick high power surge like a fuse or circuit breaker is designed for. You can buy replacement fusible links, like what's in the link below. They are a pigtail wire type, not like the old time lump in the wire type. Look about half way down on the left, part #FL-434-10 is a 10 ga. And kitty-corner to that one is a 12 ga. Your local parts stores may even have them. http://www.hotrodwires.com/catalogte...onnectors.html

 

Thanks 69, that's why I asked. :-)

Believe it or not, neither Advanced Auto nor Autozone have fusible links that are integrated into a wire like the one you posted which is why I thought of the idea of the circuit breaker. Thought I could kill two birds with one stone LOL!

Do you know the amperage on the fusible link, or is it directly in relation to the wire gauge?

Thanks!

 

That I don't know. But those would have to be rated according to what the corresponding gauge wire can handle....minus a little. It's designed to be the sacrificial lamb, to toast before the wiring does. You don't want to over-gauge the fusible link, keep them the same as the wire you're attaching it to.

 

OK I read about 99% of this post and found some troubling things. THe image of the alternator with the 2 wires from the regualtor going into them was the most troubling. OK Camaro69 did a good job discribing the wiring change but I would like to add my $.02 to it as well.

Buy one of these
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1497&ppt=C0330

You can get them in the Electrical section or Help section of your local AP store.
This is the correct connector for that Alternator. Next put a butt connector on the white wire and a Loop or fork connector on the red side, make sure it is large enough to fir over the main lead wire of the Alternator. Now attach the red wire to the main post along with the main battery lead. That wire should go to the old regualtor. (I will get back to that in a minute) now the 2 old wires that used to go to the field and Stator need to be tied together and linked to the white wire in the butt connector. Done? Good. Now back to the regulator. You should have 4 wires at it. One fat red one and a brown, blue and white. You just tied the blue and white together at the alternator so do it again here. Now use a butt connector and tie those to the brown (Brown is from the ignition switch) This is what actually turns the alternator on and off. Next is the red wire. That should connect the regulator and horn relay or just a junction block. Make the connection to the block or relay and cut off the part that used to go into the old regualtor. If this has been done properly you will have direct power from the + side of the battery going to the Horn Relay or junction block, into the interior and also to the alternator. Your switched ignition power to the old regulator should now be hooked directly to the alternator.

Check for 12V at the main wire to the alternator (key on or off)
Check for 0V to the white wire of the 2 pole plug with the ignition off and 12V with the ingnition on. IF so you have wired the alternator properly.

Massey

P.S. I will try to draw up some schematics when I get home tonight.