VERY slow cranking, 67 SB
#11
02-19-2013, 10:17 AM
He mentioned that the builder said the motor had higher compression and some people think that because of this, they need to adjust the timing, so I was thinking with the past history of hard starting, someone may have messed with it and set it up wrong.
And yes, as Everett mentioned CW is retard and CCW is advance, my mistake.
Maybe this is why my motor builder sets up my engine....
And yes, as Everett mentioned CW is retard and CCW is advance, my mistake.
Maybe this is why my motor builder sets up my engine....
#12
02-19-2013, 02:50 PM
Did you ever mess with the timing in the past?
As 69 Camaro mentioned, your timing could be too far advanced.
Maybe do a simple test and loosen the distributor hold down clamp a little and just turn the cap clockwise a little and see if that helps.
What type of carb is it? A Holley is pretty easy to rebuild but if it's a Q-jet, I'd let someone that knwos how to rebuild them do that.
As 69 Camaro mentioned, your timing could be too far advanced.
Maybe do a simple test and loosen the distributor hold down clamp a little and just turn the cap clockwise a little and see if that helps.
What type of carb is it? A Holley is pretty easy to rebuild but if it's a Q-jet, I'd let someone that knwos how to rebuild them do that.
I also managed to find additional rust problems in addition to the floors that I'm going to have done. I either need to re-learn how to weld, or find a great body guy at a better price
#13
02-19-2013, 04:34 PM
Just my opinion.
Slow cranking.
Step one, A voltage drop test. Test your cables using a voltmeter. Place the negative lead on the positive side of the battery and the positive lead on the other end of the cable at the starter. Crank the engine. Note the reading. If it greater than 1 volt your cable is either shot or too small. If it is less than 1 volt you are looking at a battery output or start draw issue. Easiest thing to do is take the battery to be tested. In a garage the next step would be a draw test to see how much the starter was drawing. This can be done with a hand held tester. (buy one, use it take it back?)
Most semi decent hot rod shops can match your starter up with its high torque big brother.
Carb and intake,
Those old street masters are the older design torker intakes. They are designed for lower RPMs RV truck type application. It is going to depend on how your motor was built and the cam that was installed. The old school holley carbs can really take a lot of tweaking to get them street friendly. My SS had the torker2 intake and with a 650 holley she did not like to run well at lower RPMs. A new style Holley avenger smoothed that right out, which was what I expected after reading the reviews. I guess what I am saying is, those parts are very old tech and they are not much better then what you have now. Just about anything built in the 90’s up is going to give you a better all around driver.
Rust,
Be careful with rust on the rag top. The rocker panels on the 1st gen rag top are structural. How they attached to the floor and the cowl give the car the strength. The process for replacing the rocker panels is a massive undertaking and even patching them should be done on a full body jig. I say this because there are a lot of rag tops out there that have been repaired incorrectly and will need to be cut a part straightened and re-assembled to be fix right. If you start welding patchs with the car jacked up funny she may stay funny after you let it back down.
Slow cranking.
Step one, A voltage drop test. Test your cables using a voltmeter. Place the negative lead on the positive side of the battery and the positive lead on the other end of the cable at the starter. Crank the engine. Note the reading. If it greater than 1 volt your cable is either shot or too small. If it is less than 1 volt you are looking at a battery output or start draw issue. Easiest thing to do is take the battery to be tested. In a garage the next step would be a draw test to see how much the starter was drawing. This can be done with a hand held tester. (buy one, use it take it back?)
Most semi decent hot rod shops can match your starter up with its high torque big brother.
Carb and intake,
Those old street masters are the older design torker intakes. They are designed for lower RPMs RV truck type application. It is going to depend on how your motor was built and the cam that was installed. The old school holley carbs can really take a lot of tweaking to get them street friendly. My SS had the torker2 intake and with a 650 holley she did not like to run well at lower RPMs. A new style Holley avenger smoothed that right out, which was what I expected after reading the reviews. I guess what I am saying is, those parts are very old tech and they are not much better then what you have now. Just about anything built in the 90’s up is going to give you a better all around driver.
Rust,
Be careful with rust on the rag top. The rocker panels on the 1st gen rag top are structural. How they attached to the floor and the cowl give the car the strength. The process for replacing the rocker panels is a massive undertaking and even patching them should be done on a full body jig. I say this because there are a lot of rag tops out there that have been repaired incorrectly and will need to be cut a part straightened and re-assembled to be fix right. If you start welding patchs with the car jacked up funny she may stay funny after you let it back down.
Last edited by Gorn; 02-19-2013 at 04:37 PM.
#14
02-19-2013, 05:45 PM
Just my opinion.
Slow cranking.
Step one, A voltage drop test. Test your cables using a voltmeter. Place the negative lead on the positive side of the battery and the positive lead on the other end of the cable at the starter. Crank the engine. Note the reading. If it greater than 1 volt your cable is either shot or too small. If it is less than 1 volt you are looking at a battery output or start draw issue. Easiest thing to do is take the battery to be tested. In a garage the next step would be a draw test to see how much the starter was drawing. This can be done with a hand held tester. (buy one, use it take it back?)
Most semi decent hot rod shops can match your starter up with its high torque big brother.
Carb and intake,
Those old street masters are the older design torker intakes. They are designed for lower RPMs RV truck type application. It is going to depend on how your motor was built and the cam that was installed. The old school holley carbs can really take a lot of tweaking to get them street friendly. My SS had the torker2 intake and with a 650 holley she did not like to run well at lower RPMs. A new style Holley avenger smoothed that right out, which was what I expected after reading the reviews. I guess what I am saying is, those parts are very old tech and they are not much better then what you have now. Just about anything built in the 90’s up is going to give you a better all around driver.
Rust,
Be careful with rust on the rag top. The rocker panels on the 1st gen rag top are structural. How they attached to the floor and the cowl give the car the strength. The process for replacing the rocker panels is a massive undertaking and even patching them should be done on a full body jig. I say this because there are a lot of rag tops out there that have been repaired incorrectly and will need to be cut a part straightened and re-assembled to be fix right. If you start welding patchs with the car jacked up funny she may stay funny after you let it back down.
Slow cranking.
Step one, A voltage drop test. Test your cables using a voltmeter. Place the negative lead on the positive side of the battery and the positive lead on the other end of the cable at the starter. Crank the engine. Note the reading. If it greater than 1 volt your cable is either shot or too small. If it is less than 1 volt you are looking at a battery output or start draw issue. Easiest thing to do is take the battery to be tested. In a garage the next step would be a draw test to see how much the starter was drawing. This can be done with a hand held tester. (buy one, use it take it back?)
Most semi decent hot rod shops can match your starter up with its high torque big brother.
Carb and intake,
Those old street masters are the older design torker intakes. They are designed for lower RPMs RV truck type application. It is going to depend on how your motor was built and the cam that was installed. The old school holley carbs can really take a lot of tweaking to get them street friendly. My SS had the torker2 intake and with a 650 holley she did not like to run well at lower RPMs. A new style Holley avenger smoothed that right out, which was what I expected after reading the reviews. I guess what I am saying is, those parts are very old tech and they are not much better then what you have now. Just about anything built in the 90’s up is going to give you a better all around driver.
Rust,
Be careful with rust on the rag top. The rocker panels on the 1st gen rag top are structural. How they attached to the floor and the cowl give the car the strength. The process for replacing the rocker panels is a massive undertaking and even patching them should be done on a full body jig. I say this because there are a lot of rag tops out there that have been repaired incorrectly and will need to be cut a part straightened and re-assembled to be fix right. If you start welding patchs with the car jacked up funny she may stay funny after you let it back down.
I want to thank all of you guys again for the great advice. I have a volt meter, I'll check out the readings tomorrow, weather permitting. I've also heard about shimming a starter, though never had need to do it, as least I didn't think that I did. Might be a good idea.
So, for carb and intake, get something with the newer tech, along the lines of the Edelbrock 2101, which I've seen at good prices, matched with a decent carb? I'm trying to find a combo unit already put together, one less step to do, though not a big deal.
Ah, the rust issue. I need to talk to a fellow enthusiast in the area, see what I can find in the way of a competent body shop.
Thanks again, I don't want this project to beat me senseless!
#15
02-19-2013, 08:22 PM
If it is just floor area raise the car up to do the patching but make sure it is sitting as it would while driving it. I have set cars on 4 cinder blocks as level as possible with the weight on the wheel. It is best to do the patchs before you pull any larger weight off the car. If the center brace has gone missing your place it before you patch.
Oh and I for got after you do the power cable do the same thing to the ground cable. either one of them building resistance could cause your problem.
Oh and I for got after you do the power cable do the same thing to the ground cable. either one of them building resistance could cause your problem.
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