Does anyone have recommendation for a spray can rubberized undercoating brand.

 

Also look for a good seam sealer too for welded seams. Would like to know if the sealer for the roof rail gutter is different than the seam seal for weld joints. I'm at the point to start working on sealing and final cleaning before paint. Any pointers would be great.

 

I'm having a professional shop restore my '68, and we elected to undercoat the entire car with bed liner like you get at Rhino or Line-X. It came out beautiful. We had to replace the pan from front of trunk to firewall and he used some sort of sealer before applying Lizard Skin 3-coat miracle stuff. I have a query in to him to see what he used for seam sealer. Anyway, here's what the bed liner looks like:

 

Yes, don't do it. There are a lot of products out there that will protect your car better then Rubberized undercoating. IMO Paint is better then rubberized undercoating. I have seen old school undercoating hide damage and by the time you find it you are replacing large sections of metal. Metal prep is key for anything you use. Next is how are you going to use the car?

 

There is nothing to hide, the car body was completely striped and media blasted (check out my posts in "Projects" under "Active First Gen Projects"... you will see my progress). The car will be garaged for the rest of its existence, maybe show it couple times and driven only in sunny days once or twice a month. Live in Northern California, so no harsh winters.

I currently have the Eastwood Chassis black and final coat of the Extreme Chassis black and the internal frame paint. Will that be OK.

 

I was not thinking of hiding existing issues as much as it hiding future issues. So when I say how are you going to use it, that becomes critical. Are you building a driver and will see rain/snow and high miles on? Are you building a show car that never see rain and drive 1000 miles per year? If you hit a rock underneath it could damage any coating you put under there. If its paint you will see the rust on a yearly inspection and fix it. But if you put something on there that will hide the stone chip and allow water to get underneath then you could have real issues down the road.

There are many levels of undercoats. There is what you have already done then the Eastwood ceramic coating is a bit tuffer and if you have the epoxy sealer primer under that it is a pretty tuff combo but not as tuff as the bed liner.

The main reason I say this is because my 67 has the basic under coating. now 25 years later I am worried about what is going on underneath. I would like to strip it but that is a ton of work. .

 

In the case of my ’68, the pan was replaced, so that portion is new metal. All old metal (i.e. trunk area, wheel wells, firewall, etc) were media blasted, power wire-brushed to bare metal, then coated with ospho to convert microscopic rust, then wire brushed again to eliminate rust flakes, then etch primer was applied. All this prep preceded the application of bed liner. Right rear inner fender was too far gone, also was replaced. The intent of all this is indeed to prevent future issues, but the body shop expert was very concerned about what he terms "microscopic rust" and that is where the Ospho surface prep comes in.

 

Thanks guys... It will definitely have 1,000 miles or less per year and give the show car tour a try. Will not be a daily driver and not driven in rain or areas with snow (salty roads). It would be just the road debris/rocks. Don't think I'll need a bed liner style undercoating. Currently has the etch primer on there now. I'll scuff that up and put a second layer of good base primer then two coats of a ceramic coating. I would be happy with that. I would like a tougher coating at the wheel wells, but I don't have the luxury of going out and having someone else spray just the wheel wells with the tougher bed liner style. Will the ceramic coating work for the wheel wells? I know are some types of can spray bed liner (Duplicolor seems good) that I could use for the wheel wells (yes).

 

This is also call flash rust. My body shop teacher said it starts the second O2 and H2O contact iron. AKA (Air, humidity and steel) The reaction is instant and can not be seen without a microscope, it needs a acid to kill it. AKA etching primer.

Turbo86: I wish my car was done the way you plan on doing yours. I would just do the Ceramic in the wheel wells.

 

Gorn: Awesome...Thanks, Now just need to find out about the seam sealer. I'll have to do some deeper research and post again later with results.

1st. Gen: Keep me posted on your car. Looks like your at the same stage I'm at. I'd be curious to see your progress. The race is on. You can check out my previous post under "Projects", post "Active First Gen Projects". I'll keep updates there.