Temp problem
#1
Temp problem
I'm surprised that I haven't seen anyone else with this question. I have a fairly stock 427, the thing is that when the summer temps get near 90, the temp just keeps going up if I get caught in traffic. I have a 4 core stock radiator with an electric fan and shroud. I had the radiator cleaned and was told that it was in great shape and I shouldn't have any problem overheating. It hasn't overheated, but it isn't summer yet either. My friend has a Chevelle big block, he has bought an new aluminum radiator with electric fan and shroud, he spent $600.00 and his still tries to get hot in traffic. The only thing that I can think that is different between my car now and 1970 is the difference in the gas. I plan to try ethanol free gas with an octane booster to see how that might help. Any other ideas out there ???
#2
BB can be hard to keep cool on hot days with stop/go traffic. Combos of larger multi core radiators, more blades on fan, correct shroud/fan geometry, secondary electric fan on front of radiator have been used with some success in those high weather temp days with slow movement of vehicle
What I have not seen much mention on is a EWP (electric water pump). I have used one now for 20+ years and 90+K mi on another car I have (Gen 2 LT1 383) and in 115 degree Vegas heat temps do stay manageable. They do get hotter to about 210 vs the 185 normally but no hotter
Assuming all your current efforts of good, large enough, radiator, fan/shroud and electric fan....might be something to consider
EWP put out a constant flow regardless of engine RPM which is higher than what the flow rate would be running a mechanical at idle/low speeds
https://www.meziere.com/Products/Coo....aspx?ext=.pdf
https://www.meziere.com/Products/Coo...ow-55-GPM.aspx
What I have not seen much mention on is a EWP (electric water pump). I have used one now for 20+ years and 90+K mi on another car I have (Gen 2 LT1 383) and in 115 degree Vegas heat temps do stay manageable. They do get hotter to about 210 vs the 185 normally but no hotter
Assuming all your current efforts of good, large enough, radiator, fan/shroud and electric fan....might be something to consider
EWP put out a constant flow regardless of engine RPM which is higher than what the flow rate would be running a mechanical at idle/low speeds
https://www.meziere.com/Products/Coo....aspx?ext=.pdf
https://www.meziere.com/Products/Coo...ow-55-GPM.aspx
#3
A couple of things you didn't mention. What temperature thermostat are you running? If you have a 180, try a 192. If a 192, try a 180.
Check your ignition timing, too far retarded will make an engine run hotter. Also, make sure your vacuum advance is hooked up to manifold vacuum, NOT the ported vacuum off the carb like what was used (changed to) back in the 1970's smog era.
Advancing the timing at idle makes an engine run cooler. Remember the decades old instructions "disconnect vacuum advance before setting base timing"? That's because vacuum advance used to be connected to manifold vacuum.
You're likely going to need to adjust your curb idle down once you connect the vacuum advance to the right port (if it isn't already).
Check your ignition timing, too far retarded will make an engine run hotter. Also, make sure your vacuum advance is hooked up to manifold vacuum, NOT the ported vacuum off the carb like what was used (changed to) back in the 1970's smog era.
Advancing the timing at idle makes an engine run cooler. Remember the decades old instructions "disconnect vacuum advance before setting base timing"? That's because vacuum advance used to be connected to manifold vacuum.
You're likely going to need to adjust your curb idle down once you connect the vacuum advance to the right port (if it isn't already).
#5
Thanks for that, someone had mentioned that before, but I had dismissed it. I kept thinking that " it didn't overheat before". It looks like it's time to update my thinking and use what is available to me....... Middle Tennessee can get several weeks of 90 + temperatures in July and August.
#6
A couple of things you didn't mention. What temperature thermostat are you running? If you have a 180, try a 192. If a 192, try a 180.
Check your ignition timing, too far retarded will make an engine run hotter. Also, make sure your vacuum advance is hooked up to manifold vacuum, NOT the ported vacuum off the carb like what was used (changed to) back in the 1970's smog era.
Advancing the timing at idle makes an engine run cooler. Remember the decades old instructions "disconnect vacuum advance before setting base timing"? That's because vacuum advance used to be connected to manifold vacuum.
You're likely going to need to adjust your curb idle down once you connect the vacuum advance to the right port (if it isn't already).
Check your ignition timing, too far retarded will make an engine run hotter. Also, make sure your vacuum advance is hooked up to manifold vacuum, NOT the ported vacuum off the carb like what was used (changed to) back in the 1970's smog era.
Advancing the timing at idle makes an engine run cooler. Remember the decades old instructions "disconnect vacuum advance before setting base timing"? That's because vacuum advance used to be connected to manifold vacuum.
You're likely going to need to adjust your curb idle down once you connect the vacuum advance to the right port (if it isn't already).
#9
I was running a clutch fan, but had a worse problem than now. It wasn't loose or anything, it had a good clutch, it was working properly, just wasn't pulling enough air to keep it cool. They seem to need more air now. ( I wonder if it's global warming ????) ha ha
#10
everyone complains about the RIVOTS. the original 4 blade fan of the 50s was put together with rivots
get a 6 blade derale flex fan and DO NOT WORRY