Hello, I'm a newbie. Used to have a couple '69's many years ago (foolishly got rid of them). Now that it's just me and the wife at home, I started building a '68 base car. Took every bolt out, off the frame and started from scratch. The car is going to have power 4 wheel disc, ford 9" with a 3.70 posi, 383 Stroker with tunnel ram & 2x4bbls being built now at Smeding Performance, B&M 350 tranny, power steering, tilt column, power windows, A/C. Now on to my question. I have relocated battery to the trunk with a disconnect switch. I ran 1 ground from battery to frame, going to also go from engine to frame. I have run 01 welding cable to the firewall. Should I go straight to the starter with the posi cable or go to a remote solenoid, then down to the starter? Any advice/tips/pros & cons would be greatly appreciated.

And if I have posted this in the wrong section, please forgive me.

I am also looking for a tunnel ram intake for my sbc. Please let me know if you know of one at a decent price.

Mike from Tennessee

 

I'd probably go straight to the starter,seems like remote solenoids are just one more part to fail.
I assume you'll have headers so a starter heat shield to protect your starter and solenoid would be a good idea.

 

Ok, ty sir. I had just heard somewhere about using a remote, then the main posi cable from the battery (that runs thru the interior) would not be hot all the time, only when I am starting the car. Which to me, seems like it still would be.

 

For antitheft it is nice to have a hidden solenoid somewhere to kill the power
Most people know so little about cars it would take them quite a while to steal it without a tow truck
I would go directly to the starter with two wires
I would run a 1 gauge ground wire to the starter too
I would not rely on the frame alone for the starter or engine ground
Sounds nice, I will look around here for a SBC tunnel ram
Know of any BBC intakes around? I am looking for an aluminum dual plane for a 427

 

This is the only tunnel ram currently for sale around here for a SBC
This one also seems a bit expensive, but with the carbs and extras, maybe not that bad of a deal

Ad on ksl.com/classifieds

 

Would you share where I can find that? Like to see if they would split it up, as I am thinking of larger carbs. Plus I would like to see a clearer pic.
Thanks and I will see what's around here for your bbc.

 

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/704543888278045/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aafd8643e-35b8-4ae5-bea8-14ca6b762c81

 

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1058245602042756/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aafd8643e-35b8-4ae5-bea8-14ca6b762c81
$200

 

OP, for your 383 with likely more compression that stock, consider a gear reduction type. I got my Remy on rockauto for around $70

 

A lot of hotrods around here
That tunnel ram can be viewed at ksl.com/classifieds
I look for intake manifolds and big block parts about daily (because I currently need one)
I see no tunnel rams ever
Today I just punched tunnel ram into the top search bar and found that one
If you cannot find that site or have trouble I can post some more of his ad
I'd rather have a square bore BBC manifold Mike, but thank you
You think a 3310 type Holley will bolt up and seal to that spread bore manifold?
I have been looking at the China air gap style dual plane manifolds online, but really do not want to send any more dough overseas
I really like the look of the angled carb on the old BB Torkers, but want to run a dual plane facory type like GM 3885069 if I can find one of those affordable