So finally finished the 6 speed install in my 67. My car was originally a 4 speed so I had the clutch pedal, however the 4 speed was taken out and a 700r4 put in. The following parts list and instructions are for a hydraulic clutch. If your car is a 4 speed or even a automatic, going with the manual linkage and clutch is a lot less expensive and a lot easier then the hydraulic conversion. You can reuse the clutch and bell housing simply by replacing the LT1 input shaft to a LS1 input shaft. And buying a adapter to go between the bell housing and trans.

Parts list: Summit part #s
T56, flywheel and bell housing out of a 96 LT1 Camaro SS
MCL-1434002 Firewall kit $274.52
RFW-PG-098 Reverse lockout $7.83
SUM-770326 Crossmember $239.97
ZZZ-HP70043-1 Clutch Kit $476.97
PTP-7-1604-BL Trans. Mount $32.38
DHB-CS360017 Slave cylinder $38

1. Remove all of the existing factory mechanical clutch linkage components.
2. Remove the brake master cylinder and booster assembly. Carefully remove the brake lines from the master cylinder and mark them to be certain they are reinstalled into the correct ports. Brake lines may need to be rerouted if interference occurs. Only use proper steel brake lines when rerouting the brake lines.
3. Disassemble the pedals fro the pedal box. Note order of all parts during disassembly. The pivot rod at the top of the box is secured with a spring clip. Remove the clip and slide the pivot rod out of the box. install the supplied pedal then the brake pedal along with the above mentioned spacers and washers. Reinstall the spring clip. Both pedals should be now securely mounted and travel through their complete arc.
4. Assemble the master cylinder to the mounting plate with supplied screws and lock washers. Tighten screws securely. Install the mounting plate master cylinder assembly pushing the pushrod through the firewall. Re-install the factory brake master cylinder onto the mounting bracket.
5. Assemble the rod end attached to the pushrod to the new pedal.
6. Mount the master cylinder reservoir in a convenient location above the master cylinder. Connect the reservoir to the master cylinder with the red hose.
7. Re-install the brake lines to the brake master cylinder and bleed the brakes.

Once the hydraulic conversion is done remove your trans, clutch and flywheel, install the flywheel, new clutch and trans. Note the hydraulic clutch is a pull type not push. Dont make the mistake of installing the clutch without the throwout bearing. It is mounted to the preasure plate on the flywheel side. Install the trans, crossmember. Fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. Mount and bleed slave cylinder. Now depending on what trans was is in the car you may or may not need to replace the drive shaft. My 700R4 drive shaft turned out to be the right length.

Iam sure I forgot some things so if there are any questions please feel free to ask. I will be driving the car on Thursday and will report how it did.

 

So why did you do the hydraulic conversion? Do you have the part number for the T-56 adapter for the original bell housing?

 

I knew the cost was going to be high but I wanted the better feel and self adjusting feature of the hydraulics. What I didnt know was what a real pain in the a** this was to install. Here is a link to the adapter. There are several places that sell them this is just one.
T56 6 Speed Transmission Parts & Rebuild Kits

 

Thanks,,,
So
Ls1 Input shaft, the above adapter, SUM-770326 Crossmember and a drive shaft cut to size. How about the floor?

So far it is sounding relatively cheap and reversible.

 

I did have to open up the floor to make room for the shifter, it does sit back farther then the Muncie. I also bought a short straight Hurst shift stick that worked perfect where the shifter comes thru the floor. And dont forget RFW-PG-098 Reverse lockout $7.83 so you can shift in to reverse.

 

How about the drive shaft? Are the ends the same just shorter? Or is the front half 4th gen and the back half 67? I would love to use the aluminum out of a 4th gen.

 

The tranny side is the same. I don't know if the rear is the same as as a 4th gen.Is the 4th gen shaft long enough?

 

You right it is too short.

I may have another problem. I am not sure the LS1 input shaft will work with a 1993 T56. It has a different 1st gear ratio. My spare is a M29

93 F-body with (M29) 6 speed Torque rating 400 lbs-ft. Has 3.23's - GU5
1st: 2.97
2nd: 2.07
3rd: 1.43
4th: 1.00
5th: 0.80
6th: 0.62

94+ F-body with (MN6) 6 speed Torque rating 450 lbs-ft. Has 3.42's - GU6
1st: 2.66
2nd: 1.78
3rd: 1.30
4th: 1.00
5th: 0.74
6th: 0.50

 

Unfortunately you are right it wont work. You need a 94 and newer T56. You could still do a hydraulic conversion but I wouldnt recommend it. I dont think it would be worth the cost and labor for that trans.

 

The nice parts of the M29 is the gearing. I already have a heavy Ram clutch behind the Muncie with less then 3K on it so I don't think I will be doing anything soon. I think I could make an adapter and use a 4th gen hydraulic system and cross member but the clutch is the killer to the budget.

One thing to note in this thread, If you starting from scratch looking at buying all the stuff and you need and the 6 speed to do this Gear vendors sells and overdrive kit that has some advantages over a 5 or 6 speed. At $2900 its out of my price range.