Does anyone have any experience with Year Ones front disc brake conversion kits or have another recommendation? Is it likely that when I do the swap that I will need to replace the brake lines at the sametime? What other parts are typically needed? Last one whats the best size master cylinder when you have the taller Eddelbrok valve covers?


68 Camaro Stats.
-327 V8 Small block (0.030" borred/flat top pistons)
-Crane cam with 0.625 lift
-202 Valves/World Headers
-Carter AFB carb
-3 Speed Auto
-3000 Stall converter
-Turbo 350
-12 Bolt rear end
-Power track locker rear end with 4/10 gears
-Air Shocks in the rear (would like to replace one day)
-4 wheel drum brakes (going to buy front disc conversion from yearone.com unless otherwise recommended)

 

I am in the process of completing a disc brake conversion on a 67 RS. I got the kit from Matt's Classic Bowties, and have been happy so far. I have the front done and am finishing the back.

As long as you are doing the upgrade, you should go ahead and replace the brake lines. Matt's has custom lines that will fit you car correctly and they are relatively inexpensive. Regarding other parts, I bought a front suspension rebuild kit from rickscamaros.com. It included upper and lower control arm bushings and ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar bushings. This kit also was not too expensive and worth doing while you have the front end apart. Regarding the master cylinder, I don't have any advice for you on that.

Good luck!

 

Got mine from Matt's also, but it is supported through right stuff.

http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/RightStuff/Default.aspx

I only had a couple issues, and they were taken care of through the tech support number. I replaced everything all at once and everything I needed came with the setup. I also got the powder coat and drilled slotted rotor upgrades. I want to say the whole deal was right at $1400. But haveing good working brakes was well worth it.

Here are some of my pics from the job,
https://camaroforums.com/forum/members/edog2-20209-albums-brake-upgrade-593/

 

With a small block you can run just about any valve covers and any master cylinder and not have clearance issues. Big blocks get trickier, and only some valve covers will clear the booster in that situation.

 

I also have the full setup from Matt's Classic Bowties and they work great as well. I recommend him. No problems and was an easy install.

 

All conversion kits come from Right Stuff Detailing. You can buy direct and cut out the middle men. Awesome complete kits with full directions.

 

Like said above, even with tall valve covers you will still have clearance between them and the power booster, it may get a little tight but it will clear.

Mine does.

 

Power brakes or manual brakes? I hear both sides from friends/family. Will I loose any HP with power or is the loss insignificant.

 

I dont think you would lose power, the power brakes work off vaccum. As long as its not leaking the only time the pressure even changes is when you hit the brakes. The booster is sealed with a diaphram in the center, there is vaccum on one side so when you push on the other (with the pedal) the vaccum assists in the pedal push. Or maybe I'm wrong, but pretty sure thats the basic theory.

 

Those were my thoughts as well I think I'm going to go with powered. Does anyone know if it is necessary to replace the spinals on kits if its not required? Should I just replace them since I have everything apart?