I am a first time buyer and am just starting to really learn about the car. My main concern is about buying a true orginal car. I found a Z28 that they claim to have matching numbers. How do I know a if this is legit?

 

The difference in value between a true all original matching numbers car and a clone is miles apart. For the last 30 years people have figured out how make almost every detail in a clone look original. There are books published on the details, problem is once its in a book in a thread the cloners know it and it is no longer a way to be sure. I would guess 50% of the cars at any given show are clones, many of the owner believe them as original. Some of the “all original cars” I can spot with stuff not correct.
With the huge swing in value between a real Z28 and a clone you really should think about getting the car checked by a 1st gen Camaro authenticator. Some of them even carry insurance so that at any point its proven to be a fake they will pay the difference in value. Also keep in mind that the quality of the restoration is also a huge part of the value. That is something else the pro inspector can help you with.

 

What if I am just looking for matching numbers to the car? I am not so worried about the type of the Camaro as I am more about it being the original pieces to the car. I see a couple out their saying matching numbers but I don't know how to look at it and know myself. Is this something I should leave up to a authenticator as well? I am not so worried about the cosmetics as I can put it back to its original state. Also, what is the best way to find an authenticator and do know a approximate cost?

 

Read up over at Camaro Research Group learning about codes.
If looking at a '68, correct year BTW, code pad is on pass side of block in front of cylinder head. It should be evenly stamped with plant made, date made and MO
Ex. V0610MO = V=Flint plant, date assembled June 10, MO= 302 CID. Engine made a couple weeks min, before date code in Trim Tag by master brake cylinder.
There will also be a partial VIN stamped and all numbers should be the same features, as restamp would be obvious, one character heavily/lightly/out of alignment with rest of characters.
Trans would have partial VIN on pass side on middle plate, again straight line and no obvious stampings.
Rear axle on pass tube, either front or on top, just date code as explained and two letter ratio code; Z/28's had std ratio with BU, 3.73:1, unless another option code selected at time of order.
P-O-P would show all this info.
Good luck in your search.

 

If you are looking for a numbers matching original unrestored true Z28 I wish you luck because so is everyone else. Keep in mind that parts of the engine/Trans and rear can be machined away and restamped. Infact the original machine that stampped the engine blocks was pulled out of a scrap yard and repair and is currently setup to restamp blocks. There are also a lot of old timers around that do the restamping by hand. Many of them are can fake out most car guys.