yea it looks alot easier than it is.

 

ok, Finally gonna post an Update....

cleaned up and painted the Gauge Carrier...


got a free AutoMeter Phantom Tach 5 years ago from SUMMIT. was just in the box with my order. called and tried to send it back. they said keep it. so, since my Gas Gauge is now in the console I decided to put it where it goes. it lights up green and looks fine at night. Im on a budget, it works with the HEI and was Free.



and the biggest news.... finally got the wiring started and finished. this is what we started with...


HUGE thank you to Louie, you guys know him as GreenArrow. Hes a wiring diagram reading, wire crimping Machine. couldnt have done it without him.


here are just a few Pictures, I didnt take alot during the install because it was so involved and I was stressed for most of it. Pictures were the farthest thing from my mind.


Billet HeadLight Switch came with the Wiring Kit...


we put alot of effort into making it look clean... Louie did a great job on the tail light harness...


showing off my clean trunk now...


Let there be Light...


and the crowning Jewel for me.... after two weeks its all finished.


for those that wanna know, we put in an 8 hour night and a 10 hour day. that got everything wired except the gauges. The console harness I paid $75 for was useless. Louie built one and I put 1' extensions on every wire. its tight under the dash trying to get the gauges hooked up.

Im only having two issues, and of those only one is keeping me from backing her out of the garage.
#1 my gas gauge is pegging out Full. I have replaced the grounds on both ends. I tried the old gauge and it didnt work at all so I guess it was bad. last night I unhooked the tan wire and pulled a new wire from the gauge to the connection in the trunk, same deal. so I guess its the Sending unit. how hard is it to drop the tank and replace it??

#2 this is the one keeping me from driving her... I have a transmission leak, its either the o-ring around the dipstick tube or the its leaking around the place where the kick down cable goes in. I cant see it so I cant tell which one it is. I got a new o-ring but cant get the friggin bolt off that hold the tube. I was planning on getting the trans serviced anyway so Im just gonna load her on the trailer and take it to them and let them deal with it.

so, its awesome to be able to turn the key and start her up. next thing to do... Carpet install and put the seats back in. its looking like my first time smoking the tires will have to be in front of the Transmission Shop. thanks for all you guys help and advice and for keeping up with my progress.

 

Looking good,

I could be wrong, but in my car you have to drop the rear end to drop the tank. Thats why everyone cuts the deck. is yours the same? If it is there are locking trap door panels for this out there. Cut the panel weld it in, and no more problem.

 

no panel in the trunk floor Bud. and Im not thinking I wanna cut one in it either. Ill prolly rig something up on the floor jack to let it down with and just go ahead and drop the tank.

 

fuel pump is on the engine isnt it? i dont remember seeing an in tank pump until the 70s and that was in injected engines.

 

Yes it is, but the sending unit is on the top of the tank. Tank is pretty easy to drop though (2 strap bolts), and nothing in the way below.

 

Hey, before you yank the tank, do this test. Remove that new tan wire back at the sending unit and touch it to a good ground source. With the key on, the gas gauge should peg past empty. If not, the problem may be with the sending unit, or the gauge itself. If the needle does peg empty, then the gauge is working fine, and it's either the sending unit is bad, or the sending unit has a bad ground. If all that gets you nowhere, go to the gauge and make sure it has voltage at the other (non tan wire) terminal. Try those tests, then come back with a report.

 

thanks 69, I'll do that and report back.

 

You can also take an ohm reading from the tan wire (sending unit side) and the ground. Its a 0-90ohm sending unit, 0 is empty 90 is full. If you have a good ohm reading there, it may be a problem further up the line. Be sure to unplug the tan wire at the trunk latch support while testing it there. On the gauge harness, I usually use the quick disconnect plugs that come with the kit. That way I can wire the gauge panel sitting on my couch. Then you just plug it in to the main harness when installing the dash carrier. AAW makes a kick *** gauge wiring kit that plugs righ into autometer gauges. I always refused to pay that much for one, but after using it on my buddy's car, I had it wired in an hour. Well worth the money. Little different when running stock gauges. I have to catch up with you soon. If I wasnt building another 69 project right now I'd offer to help you out. Looks like you are about done now.
Scott

 

thanks for the info Scott. I appreciate it. Im down in my back right now but next week Im hoping to get back out there and finish testing it so I can isolate and fix the problem. yea man, we will catch up for sure. I plan on coming by to see u and you new 69 project asap. Ill give you a call first. you should start a thread and spot some pics on your project.