Just ready to take the 327 out of my '68.

Need somw help on two things:

1. Can I use the intake mounting bolts to attach the engine hoist lift?

2. On the front mounts, which bolts are going to be easiest to remove? I have the main single "long" bolts out. But in order to clear the metal mounts the engine has to come up at least 1". ..and there is really no room at the firewall to raise the engine.

It looks like the engine has to come forward first before it can go up. To do that I will need to remove the 3 mount bolts that go into the block. And leave the cushion on the frame. Is that the way it needs to be done?

Vic

 

1. Yes. You can also use the accessory holes on the end of the heads.
2. And yes, removing the motor mount from the block is the way to be able to slide the engine forward. Are you removing the engine and trans as one?

 

Thanks Chuck!

Yes. The plan is to remove the engine and transmission together. I have to unbolt the cross member supporting rear of the tranny and move it backwards. Meanwhile support the tranny...either via the engine hoist or a seperate floor jack.

I also am lucky enough to own an engine tilt lift...that's going to make things a bit easier.

My last concern is the engine hoist itself. It is a pretty standard unit. But I'm wondering if I have to take the grill and rad cradle out to get close enough to hook up the engine hoist. ??

Vic

 

should be able to do it , i would highly recommend an engine leveler (30) bucks or so and it will make the job 100 times easier!!!!you can tilt the trans and engine up or down from front to back , so your not dragging the trans tail shaft on the ground, and if your lifting both i would not use just the 4 carb stud holes in the intake with a plate!!!!
if you have an engine tilt/leveler bolt the chains to the 4 intake corners 2 most front and rear with bolts about 1 inch longer than the intake bolts.

 

why no clearance at the fire wall? is the dist. out?
i pulled mine with the mounts still attached to engine in my 68 and i have a ss plate attached to my firewall making it even closer than factory.

 

Thanks folks.

Just speculation on my part, Burnt68. I'll give it a try and see what happens.
I will be using the front and back intake manifold bolts. (The intake is off now).

Vic

 

Engine is now out.

But as I suspected, I could not lift the engine up to clear the edges of the engine mounts.
Tried to remove the mounts from the block...but could not access the lower bolt of the mount. Could only loosen it.. could not get it right off. Ended up damaging the mount. But no matter as I will use new mounts anyway.

Of course, when it comes time to install the engine, I will need to be a little more resourseful. Should be interesting when that time comes.

 

If your engine wouldn't clear the mounts, check your subframe bushings. They may have collapsed, which would make your body closer to the frame and cause the issue you describe.

I have to caution you though, doing that may make your fenders require realignment to the doors. The ankle bone is connected to the......

 

hkunz,

Excellent observation. The body bushings all need replacement. In fact they have all been "squished" and some are torn out.

I will replace them...before I take the car to the body shop for paint. I'll let them realign doors and fenders.

Good call.

Vic