So I have always wanted to build a late 60s Camaro, and finally am in a position where that is a real possibly. Been scanning for candidates and a local 68 just popped up that is basically a roller + most of the parts to compete it. Here's what I know:

• Not numbers matching
• All metal work has been done (and done well by the look of it), including four new fenders, floor pans, trunk pam, radiator bracket, added sub frame connectors etc.
• Body work done, sealed, and basically ready for paint
• 350 in unknown condition and 4speed is offered with the car
• New glass kit and weather strip included
• Most trim and interior pieces are included, but I don't have a full inventory and I'm betting there will be done stuff that needs sourcing, it will need a full interior kit though
• Suspension is stock as are brakes and its riding on steelies

My question, is what's a reasonable price for a car in this condition. I've been out of the game for a while so I'm not really sure. All the body work has been professionally done and looks really solid, but what is being asked seems a bit steep to me even though there's obviously been a lot of work done on the car.

Thanks guys!

 

Well a lot depends on your location but 1st gen cars are gold plated these days pretty much anywhere.
Around here you'd probably have to shell out at least $10K for that and probably more especially with the motor and trans.
If the motor and trans are original to the car it's worth quite a bit more from a collectors standpoint so that's something to find out.

 

See 10 was more where I was at... Cause the work is well (and professionally) done and I'm sure he has more than 10 in the car. But he is asking 15. Motor and trans do not match the car and both are in unknown condition other than that "they were running when they were pulled out".

 

15 is not out of the question, value wise. A new chassis with front end is about 14k and that all needs fitted which could easily talk a pro a couple of day. (16 hours X $125/per hour.) Now the rest of the car needs assembled. You would also need to buy a parts car for all the little stuff to put the car together. You could easily tie up another 10 in all the widgets you would need.

How bad do you want matching numbers car? If if is not a SS or some special edition does it really mater? Yes it may be worth 5K more as a matching numbers car but to maintain that you are looking at the high end restoration parts. Most parts for the a 68 camaro are reproduced and many are made at several levels. You have the "it will work" level, the "it kind of looks right" level and the "Fool a judge that has looked at thousands of original parts" level. The High end parts are used on what is called a contour restoration. Matching number without a contour on a non-SS car seems like a waste cause now you can't take it to car real shows or play making it better/fast.

If he has Most of the parts to put a chassis and engine and trans that you could get on the road. A rust free primed chassis going down the road with a stock 350/4 speed for 15-16k seems like a pretty good deal even with 200+ hours to put it together. The value is all in that rust free chassis. I would ask for paper work or at least the name of the person or shop that did the work and call them to make sure there where no customer ordered short cuts done. Once the car is done and in primer its hard to see the sins of the past. A car that looks right and a car that was done right can be almost impossible to tell apart and a car looking right can be done by any body man there far less that can do the repair right.

I would also try to push them on the price, certainly no harm in trying. I would think 11-12 to start if the body work checks out, but 15 may not be a bad number. There are a lot of guys that end up north or 35K getting everything they need. If the body works does not check out then there is risk involved what that is worth is up to you?

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Thanks for the thoughts.

"how much do I care about number": I don't. Cause I'm not looking at a full stock build anyway. But it does change the value, even if it doesn't matter to me.

"different levels of parts": I did not know that. And honestly I don't know how to tell. Are you saying body panels are that way or other bits and pieces parts?

I gave me the name of the shop up in Kentucky. Apparently one place did the metal work and another did the body work. That's a good thought.

"15-16 to get going down the road": That's part of my concern is he says he has pretty much everything, and he certainly has a lot of parts. But I am not familiar enough with these cars to know what I might be missing. I know I would need a wire harness at least, and probably a bunch of other stuff like exhaust, etc. etc. All that adds up fast just to get it to driveable condition, let alone where I want it to be.

 

Yes there are cheap body panels out there. Most shops will not use them cause that know the time its take to make them fit right will cost way more then the good ones cost. Things like full quarters can be tuff to find cause only the OEM parts fit right and they sell for about a grand per quarter. They where discontinued in the 90s and all that is left is NOS. But a good metal worker can make anything work.

As for inventory that is the price of buying a disassembled car. The motor and trans could also be beyond repair. This risk is why you should get the car cheap. Did he bag and tag parts or are they just in boxes? How are you at puzzles? Putting a car together that you did not take a part can be a pain, expect to do some things 2 or 3 times.

 

Thanks for the insight. I'm not sure how to tell for certain but the fitment and gapping looked good in general. Transition where the full rear quarters were welded in was clean.

I'm pretty good at puzzles, but I do know it will be plenty challenging to piece everything back together. My background is in engineering, I do design work primarily, and I've been working on cars since I was a teenager up until about 6 or 7 years ago. Never had the pleasure of working on a Gen1 though so I'm sure there would be all sorts of challenges figuring out how things go back together. What I WANT to do is pick it up without the engine and tranny and do a full LS/t56 swap. Keep the body and interior classic but give it a modern drive train and suspension. But I'm not sure if the budget will allow that.

Not bagged and tagged, just boxed, roughly grouped by what part of the car it came from.

 

You could always do the project in stages. Just putting the car back together and getting running. Then stage two paint? then new drive line? then upgrade suspension, and last bring the interior up to your standard. Or what ever order you want. That way if life changes all you need to do is finish what stage you are one. To do everything at once could take year and a pile of cash.


Good luck

Now go offer them 11.5 as is