All,
just inherited my Dad's 1969 Z-28 which hasn't run in about 4 years. It's in relatively good shape having been garaged and I went through the paces to get her back on line. Swapped out the gas, changed the oil, radiator fluid, Marvel in the cylinders, new plugs, and fresh battery. Tried to start her up naturally, no go. Then used starter fluid, no go again. Engine cranks but no spark. Kinda frustrating after all the videos I've seen on Youtube with guys starting up cars that were in fields for 20-30 years with no problem. So, my question is, what should I try first from easiest to most difficult to get this baby started? BTW, it has a regular distributor and points too, which I plan on eventually getting rid of in favor of MSD/HEI. Thanks for the help!

 

Are you sure it's a no spark situation and not something like a plugged fuel filter?
Does the accelerator pump spray gas in the carb when you pull the throttle back?
Have you pulled the distributor cap off,could be condensation in there fouling the points,a couple shots of WD40 will clear that up.
Have you checked to see that you have power to the coil when the ignition is on?

 

Given I sprayed starting fluid directly into the carb and didn’t get so much as a peep, I discounted it being a gas issue. Haven’t had a chance to check the coil yet.

 

Keep in mind most of those guys can diagnose a issue like this in minutes. Failures on these types of systems are very common, most needs some attention every 15,000 miles or so and time is not your friend. Any part of the ignition system can cause a no spark situation. Step one, is to see if the primary ignition side trying to work? Does the coil have 12+ volts going to it, While cranking is the ground pulsing?. (Do not leave the key in the on position while the car is not running or cranking as this will fry the points is less then a minute.) You can use a test to see if there is any pulse at all on the ground side of the coil. To measure the pulse you would need a dwell meter.

No pulse tells us the primary ignition is not working. Strong pulse and no spark is normal a secondary ignition issue.

Also keep in mine the old plugs are not as hot as newer cars, if the plugs a fuel or oil fouled the motor will not try to start with starter fluid.

 

Don't spray WD40 in the distributor, volts to the + side will be around 7 or 8 volts (resistor wire to the coil on point ign.). Have you pulled the coil wire out of the dist. cap and placed it near a clean ground while cranking to see if it sparks? Point gap should be about .019". Coil resistance between + & - on the coil should be around 1 ohms. From the - side to the secondary coil wire tower should be 4000 to 10000 ohms. Check the breaker plate ground wire connection also.

 

All,
it was apparently the points BUT there's more.

1. Pulled the cap and sanded the points contact, then blew it out. Put cap back on, shot some starting fluid in, and boom--she started, but only for a second or two. Tried that a few times, same thing. Checked the carb bowl--dry as the Sahara so no few getting there.
2. Checked the filter--not clogged, replaced it anyhow. Same thing. Starts but dies after a few seconds.
3. Pulled the hose from the gas line to the fuel pump and shot some compressed air in the line to the tank. Heard the air in the tank so it appeared unclogged.
4. Attached a hose from the fuel pump to my gas can and tried to start it up.....NOTHING.

So, it sounds like the fuel pump. Just ordered a stock AC Delco for $20 which should be here Monday. If that doesn't work, I'm at a loss.

 

Have you cranked the motor with the fuel line to the carb off to see if it's pumping gas through the line?
Floats and or needle valve may be stuck in the carb not letting gas get in,probably a good idea to kit the carb anyway after sitting that long.

 

I agree with Y2Keglide on rebuilding the carb. If it has the black accelerator pump and **** bowl gaskets they are not friendly with E10 pump gas. New kits have the green pump and blue bowl gaskets. A dwell meter is the best way to adjust the points for best coil saturation.