Now I see why they changed the set up in 68. I took the 67 out for a warm-up drive yesterday and found a spot of fresh pavement that was just asking for it. So since I havent really pushed the new setup I figured it was time. I got a nice 30-40 feet and then I felt like I was going to shake the whole thing apart so I let up.

 

I take it you don't have any traction bars on it?

 

I dont have anything on it yet. I am actually taking it to an old school alignment shop Tuesday. I had them do the computer crap and they said it was aligned, even though I lost a few of the spacers. I am going to have them give it a good shakedown so they can tell me what is in need of replacement and how I can improve. I will google some traction bars, I have heard of them, but dont know what they are.

 

If you do get traction bars, just don't get the cheapo ones that clamps to the leaf springs. Even though they may be better than nothing, they're not good for the springs.
Take a look at these Traction Bars from Summit, the 3rd, 4th, and fifth ones down. The slide-a-link ones are nifty, but cost a bit more.
The other two are the better style of slapper bars that replaces your bottom spring plate, which ties them to the axle housing.

 

They look nice, I think I will start by replacing all the dry rotted bushings first though, lol.

 

Any of these would be good choices, but the C2101 are a very nice set for a midrange price.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...%20camro&dds=1

 

Your new bushings will help to tighten up the suspension, but you'll still have the spring wrap issue, which is what's giving you the wheel hop. It would be easier to do it all at the same time.
If on a budget, there are two main bars to consider from the Summit link I gave. The Lakewood #21606 is a good spring plate mount type bar. The Comp. Engineering #C2101 goes one step further and has provisions for J-bar mounting instead of using u-bolts. The j bolts are supposed to absorb more stress that would otherwise be put on the u-bolts and spring perches. With those, you also still use the factory style t-bolts in the front holes, or replace them with grade 8 bolts and nuts.

 

This may sound a little nuts but I know it works as a friend of mine performed this procedure on his '64 Chevy II.
He used a 3 leaf spring set-up and fabricated 2 half leaves per side to be installed under the 3 leaf combination , forwad of the rear axle yielding five leafs at this position and three leafs behind the axle, per spring. He basically cut the two forward sections from individual leafs leaving the center holes for the bolt. In total, he cut an additional four leafs to yield four half leafs with the center holes.
This car has a 500 (plus) HP chevy small block, M-21 with 456 gears. He did the 1/4 mile with me in it, full traction, no hop whatsoever.
I would use this application in a heartbeat on a street racer with rear leafs.