my 67 camaro wont start when it gets hot. I have been using after market starters from (AUTOZONE Starter DL 3510MS).

The car doesnt have the original engine 327 that came with it; i have since replaced it several years ago for a 383 stroker later model 350 im sure its a 1984 or newer block, I do not have "headers" on the car at all as i have put back on the manifolds.

Situation" The car starts fine when cold (starts up right away) when driving around after it gets hot like 5 miles or so when you go to turn the car over you dont hear anything not even a click as it wont turn nothing as if the car is dead except for radio lights etc,,,

I have to take a big flat nose screw driver and (jump the starter slightly) at the solenoid,, i have already swapped the starter out with another Starter at Autozone,, The only thing i can think of is i need either insulation tape/ a heat sheild guard or there is something wrong with the ignition or cable but everything looks ok, and the car does start when cold and is only doing this problem when she gets warmed up?

Any advice please ?

 

I remember those "big" screwdriver days. It sounds like to me, the starter solenoid is getting too hot.
There are a few things you can do, one, if I recall correctly, GM made a heavy duty spring that replaces the thinner spring inside the solenoid. Just simply remove the solenoid, remove the old spring and put in the new heavier spring.
The trick I like is to use a Ford starter solenoid kit. They sell them pretty much anywhere or you can do what I did and just make your own.
Here is a link to the kit sold by Summit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1750
This will pretty much solve your problem.

 

not sure about this option im leaning towards either just a (solenoid sheild which is 10 bucks or MR Gasket Starter sheild which is about 34.00 ), ..if the solenoid is getting hot.

 

I have never had luck with those shields, in fact I threw out the stainless steel factory one that I had. I know others that said they are a waste of time.


You could always try a high torque starter, that may help?


Another thing I also heard was if your battery cable going to the starter wasn't heavy enough.

 

Very good point.
As heat increases, so does internal resistance of wire/cable.
A minimum of 1 AWG for both battery cables with the contact places and cable terminals clean.

Since '67, engine ground contact would be the upper water pump double-ended bolt. You might move it to the front engine boss - see the single bolt?

Ensure battery is fully charged and charging system is up to par.

 

There is a reason why they put on those "useless" starter heat shields at the factory.

 

Only reason I can think of is to be a nuisance when replacing the starter.

 

this isnt a common problem for me as ive owned the car since at least 97 , and im not running headers etc, so the solenoid is getting hot or the cables are bad.. please note ive been running just autozone basic starters with no problems and even when it was a 118 degrees in AZ my car would start over the last couple of years so i think i should check the wiring/cables as well ,

 

Hmm i will check the battery cable as they arent new the negative or the positive, on a side note can you elaborate on the heat shields a bit more please about being junk and or useless?

 

The heat shields aren't junk or useless, the use of quote marks that I put stands for sarcasm. Their purpose is to isolate the starter solenoid from engine/exhaust heat, which can cause a heat soak issue (dead acting starter). Some guys never have a problem when they replace a starter and leave the heat shield off, so naturally, it was a "useless piece of junk". But, some do have heat problems without it. GM would not have installed heat shields if there wasn't a possible issue with heat, and this was with cast iron manifolds, not headers. Not saying yours is a heat soak issue, only that it could be, as you have the classic symptoms.