Just bought a 67 Camaro RS, needs complete new floor, trunk floor, rear frame rails, rockers, both quarters and possibly some firewall patch work. Got the car for free with a clean title, Iam wanting to do as much of the work as i possibly can. where do i get started? cut out the ENTIRE floor of the car including interior floor, and trunk floor? do the rear frame rails mount to the interior floor/trunk floor? any advice would be helpful.

 

Sounds like you in over your head. Based on your description the car will need assembled on a body jig. The combination of floor and frame repair make this a very tricky repair. The only way this can be done without a body jig is "IF" you know the rust damage has not already let the body flex you could build a support system to hold everything inplace and make one repairs at a time.

The issue is getting the car repaired and have everything fit and be right when its done. Some areas on the car are forgiveing if you make a mistake but a 1/2" mistake in the wrong area means a do overs. You can get a 1/2" mistake just supporting the car with a jack stand in the wrong place.

Pics might help us help you. I hope you have a large budget. This will not be a cost savings for you. I have seen soild shells selling for 4K. No way will you get this fixed for 4K even if you do all the work.


http://www.firstgenjigs.com/

 

I have all the time in the world to complete this car, Iam in no rush whatsoever, it's going to cost me 2k just got the sheet metal from Ricks Camaro, I will post pics after work.. The trunk floor pan has 2 small holes of rot, and the back seat where your feet would sit is rotten, and that's it. After that it's just the frame rails and quarters. And the quarters aren't overly to bad.. I just may as well do them looking at the cost of new ones and in the hope I can do them myself.

 

You always find more rust. You are going to spend a lot of money on supplies. I don’t know your tool situation but you could have over a grand just in supplies. Do you have the large tank for your mig? You can save a lot of money by getting the large tank. I have done these types of restores and I helped a lot of people do theirs. I hear the same thing all the time. Had I only known I would have never bought a car that needed so much work. I have also seen first time restorers realize they screwed up early on and not find the problem until final assembly. (You have to watch buying almost done project for that reason)

I am not trying to talk you out of it. You will learn a lot from the process but it is not a good way to save money. If you do all the work and you finish it, it is a great feeling but I would be willing to bet you will not say, “wow that was a good way to save money”. To date no one else I know has


Like I said I recommend you use a body jig. You can flex a new 1st gen body if you do not support it right and if you weld anything while the body is flexed you will cause the car to not return to its original shape. If you are not doing a jig then set the car on an even surface ON ITS TIRES and weld in cross structures at the doors and crisis crossed from the front roof to the rear wheel well (driver side to passenger’s side). When in doubt weld another brace. Also control the heat. Even though cosmetic issues are not a big deal under your car you start pushing warps bad enough the car will “spring” once you start removing all the internal braces. Even with a body jig you should replace one area at a time. Make sure you have a frame of reference on every piece. I like to get the trunk adjusted after I mount on the jig/weld in supports but before I cut anything if I am doing quarter panels. That way when I install the Quarter I know I am close to the factory position. Yes you can screw up a uni-body car just putting the quarter panels on if the car is flexed.

 

Thank for the info! Iam going to just use jack stands, where should I place them? Also am going to start with the trunk floor first, then interior floor. How do do the rear frame rails mount? Any advice on those? Also any advice On removal and installation on rear quarters?

 

If I was not using a jig I would most likely build a wooden stand to support the as much metal as I could on the back without the frame rails.


Its funny cause 15 years ago the only cars that ever got the frame rails replaced where the rare or semi rare SS's. Base cars where just scraped. I have not replaced any but I assume they are just spot welded in. You going to have to deal with all the supports to the trunk and bumper all at one time to get it right. Make sure you have about 30 clamps in your tool box before you start !

There are some real good how to videos you should get.
I like the Paint-u-cation series

SmartFlix, the Web's Biggest How-To DVD Rental Store

You want to start with Rust repair (teaches you how to kill rust)
and the Body pannel replacement Part one and two.

Also what welder do you have? can it be adapted to .023 wire? Any access to a tig?

 

email me pjchampagne55@yahoo.com

 

I did what you are describing. Check out my link to photobucket below to see what I did. My reciepts total over $22,000. That does not include cash for things at swap meets and what not. Did I save money by doing it myself, yes. Would I do it again, NO.
Good luck

 

I have to agree, I have redone a few cars. Before I brought my 68 roller this summer I looked at some project camaros and parts my 2 cents solid roller way to go in the spring I will drop a motor in and drive and done but am turning 50 soon lol. Good luck as long as its fun for you its all good