383 w/saginaw w/4-11 rear end
#11
the numbers on the side are GM3925656 = 68-69 GM
52254 on the tail
and from what I remember there was no rings on the input shaft but not totally 100% on that
#12
Might, might not. Years ago, I accidentally put in the wrong throwout bearing (never trust the guy behind the parts counter). It was a gradual slip that got progressively worse the more I drove and wore the clutch lining down, not like smoking it off the line, and it didn't give a burn smell either. If his clutch is slipping more than it's grabbing, I wouldn't expect it to create a smoke show.
The bearing I put in came with the clutch, I didnt notice any issues during the install, andthing I should look for?
#13
It's clear your clutch has to be slipping, so you need to find out why.
Did you replace the pressure plate too, or is it an old worn out one?
Don't think you could have without noticing you didn't have clearance, but you don't have the clutch disc flipped?
Do you know which pressure plate you have; Borg & Beck, diaphragm, or long style?
Do you know which throwout bearing you have; long or short?
You need to use the right length bearing with the appropriate pressure plate.
If those are a mismatch, you'll end up with a clutch that wont disengage, or one that won't engage (what I think you may have going on).
For reference, here's how to tell the Saginaw transmissions apart, although which one you have has nothing to do with your slipping clutch: Saginaw Gearbox - Holdenpaedia
Did you replace the pressure plate too, or is it an old worn out one?
Don't think you could have without noticing you didn't have clearance, but you don't have the clutch disc flipped?
Do you know which pressure plate you have; Borg & Beck, diaphragm, or long style?
Do you know which throwout bearing you have; long or short?
You need to use the right length bearing with the appropriate pressure plate.
If those are a mismatch, you'll end up with a clutch that wont disengage, or one that won't engage (what I think you may have going on).
For reference, here's how to tell the Saginaw transmissions apart, although which one you have has nothing to do with your slipping clutch: Saginaw Gearbox - Holdenpaedia
#14
It's clear your clutch has to be slipping, so you need to find out why.
Did you replace the pressure plate too, or is it an old worn out one?
Don't think you could have without noticing you didn't have clearance, but you don't have the clutch disc flipped?
Do you know which pressure plate you have; Borg & Beck, diaphragm, or long style?
Do you know which throwout bearing you have; long or short?
You need to use the right length bearing with the appropriate pressure plate.
If those are a mismatch, you'll end up with a clutch that wont disengage, or one that won't engage (what I think you may have going on).
For reference, here's how to tell the Saginaw transmissions apart, although which one you have has nothing to do with your slipping clutch: Saginaw Gearbox - Holdenpaedia
Did you replace the pressure plate too, or is it an old worn out one?
Don't think you could have without noticing you didn't have clearance, but you don't have the clutch disc flipped?
Do you know which pressure plate you have; Borg & Beck, diaphragm, or long style?
Do you know which throwout bearing you have; long or short?
You need to use the right length bearing with the appropriate pressure plate.
If those are a mismatch, you'll end up with a clutch that wont disengage, or one that won't engage (what I think you may have going on).
For reference, here's how to tell the Saginaw transmissions apart, although which one you have has nothing to do with your slipping clutch: Saginaw Gearbox - Holdenpaedia
Ok so I think it was a Beck clutch set that I picked up from oreillys and im pretty sure the throw out bearing is the short style, the clutch disc is in the correct way for sure and the whole clutch assembly is new, I had the flywheel re serfaced. the clutch setup looks like the attached picture.
#15
Oh jeez, I can't believe I didn't ask you the obvious question first! Did you set your free play at the clutch pedal? Pull the pedal up by hand till it stops, then lower it till you feel resistance (not force). You want 1" of free travel from the up position till you feel the pedal get tight. If your pedal is already tight, the clutch is slipping because of that. The pressure plate in the drawing by the way is a diaphragm style.
Last edited by Camaro 69; 05-09-2012 at 05:56 PM.
#16
Oh jeez, I can't believe I didn't ask you the obvious question first! Did you set your free play at the clutch pedal? Pull the pedal up by hand till it stops, then lower it till you feel resistance (not force). You want 1" of free travel from the up position till you feel the pedal get tight. If your pedal is already tight, the clutch is slipping because of that. The pressure plate in the drawing by the way is a diaphragm style.
Ok well id say so far on my first manual install its 1-0 manual... my pedal is tight so I'm working on fixing that right now and I will let you know if that fixes it... thanks for the help by the way
#17
Oh jeez, I can't believe I didn't ask you the obvious question first! Did you set your free play at the clutch pedal? Pull the pedal up by hand till it stops, then lower it till you feel resistance (not force). You want 1" of free travel from the up position till you feel the pedal get tight. If your pedal is already tight, the clutch is slipping because of that. The pressure plate in the drawing by the way is a diaphragm style.
#20
He's cranking 5 grand at 35 mph in 4th gear. That's not his 4:11 rear doing that.
Another thought, at that rpm your engine would be somewhat screaming. Is it, or maybe your tach is outta whack.
However, if you can feel the clutch slipping (watch the tach climb without speeding up) then that's not your tach.
Another thought, at that rpm your engine would be somewhat screaming. Is it, or maybe your tach is outta whack.
However, if you can feel the clutch slipping (watch the tach climb without speeding up) then that's not your tach.