I've seen several threads on here dealing with this problem. I've tried most of the solutions to no avail.

I am restoring a 68 Camaro for someone. They dropped in a 69 396 Automatic. They car was running and driving when I brought it into the shop. We moved the alternator to the right side (they had it cobbed into the left side due to the water pump). This is when our problems started. I have tried to trace out the wiring but have run into a few weird things. The car has two different horn relays. The "normal" one for a 68 on the core support, and another one spliced into the harness near the firewall. It also does not have a voltage regulator. And last, but not least, there is no yellow wire going to the R post on the starter solenoid. I do not see where there ever was one, but the wiring diagram shows it. If I cross the Red wire on the starter to the purple wire the car turns over easily. Also, all other lights, etc work.

Sorry so long, wanted to get in some details. Is there any way to trace the voltage that is supposed to be going to the purple wire? I checked the neutral switch and there is a single purple wire going to it.

Thanks,
Jim

 

If you're restoring the 68 back to original, the alternator belongs on the drivers side (short water pump setup). If the owner doesn't care about the car being "correct" then never mind. If the alternator has been upgraded to an internal regulator style, then the external regulator wouldn't be used, and would explain why it isn't there. The fact that you're starting the engine by crossing the starter battery wire to the purple "S" wire, means the starter is ok, and that purple wire isn't getting power when the key is in the start position (check with a test meter). Since the factory coil is/was hooked up by a resistor wire (10 volts or less) the "R" terminal on the starter gives the coil a full 12 volts only while cranking the engine to ease starting. If the ignition has been upgraded from points/condenser to electronic or HEI, then the distributor gets hooked to a 12 volt source, not the original resistor wire, and the "R" wire isn't needed or used. Your problem could be with the extra horn relay that was added at the firewall, you'll need to do some tracing and testing with a meter.

 

Found the problem. There was a neutral starting switch under the dash I didn't know about. Jumpered it and it turns over fine.