I just got a 89 rs (2.8 automatic)that i need to get running.I'm not sure of the history but it cranks and won't start.I have spark at the coil wire but not at the plugs.It has new cap,rotor,plugs and wires.The ICM and pickup coil tested good,distributer was replaced with a better used one.Can I test the 4pin connector at the ICM if so how.Any help to get this started is greatly appreciated.

 

How do you know that you have fire out the coil? If you have fire there, then the only thing stopping it would have to be a little button on the bottom side of the cap ( it has a spring on the top side, the button is about 1/4 diameter).

 

Alright,I rechecked my spark at coil wire(I used a plug with the ground eletrode cut off and held next to ground).The spark is blue with white edges.I tested the coil as per Chiltons repair manual,tested ok.But I'm beginning to think it is a week coil.I will try a new one when I get a chance.Thanks for the input.

 

You have new cap, rotor, plugs, wires and a good spark at the coil. How about at each each plug wire? Pull each wire off each plug and test same as coil. Did you get a spark? If so, start looking at other problems. Test the voltage at the battery (should be at least 12.6 volts)(with car running it should be 13.8 or more under normal charging conditions). A weak battery or poorly charging alternator could cause a weak voltage signal to the coil. Test voltage at coil. A weak electrical spark may seem OK when testing plugs out of the head, but may not have enough energy to create a spark in the compustion chamber and overcome compression pressures. If all tests OK. Look to see if the engine ground strap is missing or damaged. There should be a braided metal strap or battery type cable that grounds the engine block to the chassis or frame. A missing or damaged strap could make it difficult for the spark to find a good ground and fire properly. If the block and heads are not grounded well, the spark plug isn't either!! No ground, no spark. Also, recheck the routing of the plug wires, make sure they go to the proper plugs. If all checks out OK, make sure it is not a fuel delivery problem. Have you had the car running at all???? Was it running before you changed all the ignition parts??? if not you may be looking at a fuel problem. Pull off the air cleaner and watch the injectors (TBI right?) Do they shoot fuel when engine cranks? If yes, probably not a fuel problem. If no check fuses and relays first, including those for fuel pump. When you turn the key on, but not to crank position, do you here the fuel pump run?? It should prime itself (run for a couple of seconds and then stop) to build pressure for the injectors. You should be able to here it if you stand back at the gas tank. If pump runs, but no fuel at TBI, check fuel filter, may be clogged. This should get you close to a solution.

 

I rechecked battery voltage,its good.I have good voltage to coil.Cleaned and checked grounding strap.Rechecked spark plug wire order.I can hear the fuel pump priming itself.After a little cranking I smell fuel.I assume I'm getting fuel but I don't know how to check (multi port injection).As I turn dist. cap back and forth to make spark I think I hear the fuelpump relay click and the fuelpump pump up every few sparks.I still get spark from coil wire but none of the spark plugs.I can here the spark inside the cap but none out the wire.I reinspected the cap, spring loaded contact and rotor look good and are new.I bought the car not running and don't know the history(hopefully not for long).Could this be a week coil (coil tested good with ohm meter)?Could spark fire between contact points on dist cap even though I am moving cap as I test(if so why)?My wires are new and have about 9000 ohms resistance for 28 inch wire.Any and all help to get this started is greatly appreciated,thanks for all help.

 

Sounds like a problem with the cap or rotor or how they are aligned. The fact that you hear a spark inside the cap sounds like the spark is jumping an air gap. Check to see if the metal strap on the top of the rotor is in contact with the button on the inside of the cap. Look for a mark on the metal strap signifying that they are touching, or else use a small piece of modeling clay on the strap and reassemble. The button should leave a mark in the clay letting you know how close it is. It should touch. The other place to look is the gap between the end of the rotor and each electrode on the cap as is spins and distributes the spark to each plug. The gap should be between 0.003" and 0.009". The last thing is to make sure the rotor is lining up with the electrode as the cylinder reaches TDC. If the do not line up then the coil may be firing when the rotor is between two electrodes and instaed sending the spark to the distributor housing instead of out a wire.

 

I bought a new coil and it started.Apperantly the check I did was not real reliable.Very nicethanks.