I have short pieces of 3/8" fuel hose on both of my cars. On one it's to make the fuel pump and filter easy to maintain, and also to isolate the hard lines from frame to engine, so things don't break from vibration. Hose is used for vibration on the other car also, for the same reason.
Both of mine are totally plumbed with hard line, so I needed to put some flexible line in at key points. Nothing wrong with some rubber hose, and it has a purpose. I didn't want to spend the money they get for AN fittings, so that was my reason for both hard lines with flared fittings, and the short hoses too.

 

Got everything mounted and connected. Not the cleanest plumbing job but with a little luck everything will work and not leak. I didn't check but after looking at the pics I took, I might be able to utilize the old trans line clamp on the frame right by the pump to hold the hose out of the way a bit. I'm 2 clamps shy (on the filter connections) of having it all finished. Everything else is mounted, thread sealed and tightened. So close. Figuring out the shifter linkage next and then tightening up the suspension and body mounts. Can anyone tell me what the torque specs are for the body mounts and core support? I know I have them somewhere but can't locate them.

 

I think you want like 75 ft lbs. Not sure. I've asked several times myself but as many times as the frame has been off I have forgotten. Looks good. I still need to mail a spring bracket but at least I look at it everyday.

In the process of abandoning ship here. Game over and were moving on. I'm sure you know what I mean. Anyhow I have been busy packing things and trying to down size my fleet of automobiles as well. May have a buyer for both 85's. I will be depressed when that happens for sure. The 2wd has been in and out of my life for well over ten years and I have some real cool memories. Anyone need car parts? Stop in, I probably have a spare!

 

No kidding, you guys are relocating eh? May be a blessing in disguise. As much of a bummer as it would be to sell the truck, when you have all that extra time/funds to work on the Camaro you probably won't be beatin' yourself up too much over it. It's funny how time works! Sucks you have to spend a chunk of your summer doing this but suppose it beats the heck outta doing it in the winter right? Hope everything works out good, and quickly for you.


Got the shifter linkage taken care of this evening! I went to swap out the too short starter bolts and wouldn't ya know it? The new bolts are too long! Don't even think there's a size in between, at least not from ARP. I'm just going to use a couple extra washers or some aluminum spacers and call it done. Just have to go back to the parts store and get them now.


I started torqueing the core support down and think I'm somewhere around the 90# range. I was thinking the body mounts were more like 100+ lbs. from what I remembered? For some reason 130lbs. is what I was thinking, but that may well be way too much. Didn't get to the body mounts yet anyway, it's Daddy/Daughter date night tonight! I'll get on them tomorrow and get those and the rest of the suspension tightened up so I can move on to the wiring. Sure would be nice if I could have this thing ready to fire by the end of next week but that's being pretty optimistic. We'll have to see.

 

Ladies and gentlemen, the 2014 Charlevoix car show best of show winner is....

 

I will now and forever drive around Charlevoix! As a matter of fact lets petition Gov. Synder to annex them from Michigan!

 

Can someone help me with what size(s) the mounting screws are for this piece that the steering column goes through and mounts to the firewall please? There's only one holding it in there and I'm not sure if the one in there is even correct. Appears to be 2 different sizes and I can't find any hardware online for this. Any insight would be very helpful.


Vall, would you be able to enlighten me on how/what I would need to use to connect the carb to scoop linkage? I see some different things at Summit under the "replacement" parts section but not sure what all I would need. Looks like Mr. Gasket has a rod that is bent to fit them but I'm not sure how it all mounts. There is also a replacement butterfly kit for the 3 butterfly scoops that looks like it has everything for $19 at Summit, I can send a link but wondered if something like that would work if you know what I'm referring to? Just thought I'd ask as it's something else that will need to be done in the next 2 weeks. Thanks in advance sir.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3108-4

 

I bought two 10-32 heim ends, and a short piece of 3/16" aluminum rod from the hardware store. Used my tubing bender to bend an offset in the rod to attach it to the small hole on the carburetor linkage, and threaded both ends for 10-32 after cutting it to length. The rod ends were $2. ea. at QS Components with free shipping. So the whole thing was less than $10. QS is in Muncie, In., so you could get them pretty fast.
http://www.qscomponents.com/
You can see the rod in this picture, and where it hooks to the bottom of the linkage:

 

The issue I have with buying separate parts and doing myself is the lack of tubing bender and dies. They have kits that are not quite as cheap but still reasonable and I'm planning on going that route. The link I sent you has the butterflies also but for the price it looks like I get the pre-bent chrome rod and the red connectors for less than a universal linkage kit that has a natural finish.


Any idea about the mounting hardware for the steering column plate to firewall?


At one point someone had shared a chart showing the grounding points for the engine/chassis/body but I can't seem to locate it. I pretty much know where to put the grounds but if someone has the specific chart/info I'd appreciate that as well.


Started soldering some small wires onto all the new switches for easier connections (the terminals are tiny on these push button switches!) and man, I am RUSTY at soldering! The couple that I did get done work at least but let's just say I'm glad that the backs of the switches won't be visible. Right down to the black charred shrink sleeve done with a lighter lol!

 

Don't need a tubing bender to bend this small aluminum rod, as it bends easier than tubing. Just a padded jaw in a vise will do it. But cheap tubing benders from HF are only about $7, and that's what I've used for all my fuel and brake lines, plus this rod. I have this one, plus an even cheaper plastic one, and both do a nice job.
Tubing Bender - Save on this Manual Tubing Bender

Kits end up doing OK, but often the rods are just straight rods, and wont do the offset needed to go from the wider scoop arm to the narrower carb linkage, or look goofy going at an angle. Heim ends will only allow a little misalignment, so they will bind if there's much angle. I just like the aluminum, and making the bends to add to the clean-custom look they give when built to fit the system. Saving money doesn't hurt either!