well i havent updated in a while but heres whats going on


put the headers on and welded some cherry bombs to the reducers, simple cheap and sounds good.

the Mot*********g flex plate completely crapped out after a week of working perfectly


the original carb that came with the car is now back on the car and that vacuum secondary 600 is gone. i took the money from that and bought a set of jets and accelerator squirters to get it running right. bout time i learn to tune a carb anyways

 

I'm sure cherry bombs welded to the headers sounds like something.

The first engine I ever got greasy on was my dads factory 304 powered jeep. It wasn't quit welded to the reducers. It had to snake around the T-case a bit. Still there wasn't 12" of pipe on either side. With the doors and top off that this was a riot. It was also packing an Edelbrock Performer package and had head work done. SOB would jerk the tires on a clutch dump. Heck of a vehicle to learn on, learned how to drive stick in it too.

 

sounds fun!

yeah the exhaust is very old school. headers and 25" cherry bombs or "thrush" as they are called now. later im going to add 45* elbows off the ends so they come out the sides.

i did a bunch of "attempted welding" but eventually i got the glass packs melted to the reducers. the cherry bombs are 2 1/4 to keep some back pressure.

the double pumper is back on the car now but the accelerator squirters arent right. i suspect it has something to do with the "torker" manifold. needs a bigger squirt. plus the timing is off and the vacuum advance isnt hooked up.


still after it gets off its *** it moves pretty good. i dont think the jets are right either, i see alot of plug reading in my future..


and now a funny video about aforementioned attempted welding

 

If you plopped a double pumper and a Torker on a fairly stock engine, it will be a challenge to get it to run right. Jets wont affect the acceleration, as they're simply flowing gas as you cruise. But if it's jetted too rich the plugs can foul and then it will load up at idle. I doubt you need more of a squirt from the nozzles to perform better, but you may need better heads and a cam to work with the carb and intake.
Need to check that timing first though, as the carb and Torker will need as much initial advance as possible to work with the smaller stock smog heads. Just make sure total timing isn't over about 36 degrees.

 

On your welder...you need to crank that amperage up! A small 100a welder is plenty big enough to weld exhaust systems well, if you are using the proper rod (7016) and have enough amperage turned up. It should burn in and flow well at around 40-50 amps, depending on your rod diameter. Smaller rod takes less amps, and larger more amps. Here's a good calculator that Miller has to help you determine rod size, amperage, etc.
Miller - Stick Welding Calculator

 

well i suspect the jets are to big and the accel squirt is too small, i know the timing is off as well. i know its the accel squirt because it bogs and pops then picks up, i went ahead and bought a jet kit and accerater pump tuning kit.

I've been watching and reading every thing on the internet about tuning a holley. im going to make it work.

soon it will bet getting a comp 268h, and an edlebrock performer rpm intake.

also im not so sure its a smog era engine. its alot stronger than other smog 350s ive been in and the engine code just says its a gm crate engine.


the welder was at 100 amps. ive done my best to find the smallest rods i could 1/8" i believe.

I have welded a couple things befor with it but mostly just welding nuts to broken bolts or studs. i did weld the diff in my subaru with it and that was a challenge but it worked....for a while anyways

 

Bogging and popping could be a fuel issue, but it could be timing too. Need to ensure the timing is set correctly prior to adjusting or changing jets, accelerator pumps, or pump cams. A lean bog or a rich bog feel much the same, so once timing is set, take it for a drive and when you get home pull a plug and check plug color. That will tell you more about what's going on than anything else.
When you have the timing set, then put a vacuum gauge on straight manifold vacuum port and adjust the idle-air mix screws to give maximum engine vacuum at idle. Once you adjust to max vacuum, then shut the engine off and check both idle air screws to see where each is sitting. Gently turn them in while counting the turns. If one is not the same as the other pick a happy medium and make them the same. If one is 1.5 and the other is 2 turns, then set them both at 1 3/4 turns.
There are a lot of good tuning tips on the internet for Holley carbs, but you need to get a baseline tune done first, so you're starting with correct timing, and carb adjustment, then you can change jets, adjust accelerator pumps, and improve the base tune.

 

good to know. im going to have alot to sort out but timing is the first on my list.

also i got a cheap vacuum gauge and it was pulling 30 hg. that seems a bit wrong to me. not sure if its the tune or the gauge. im going to get a better one and start from there

 

That's probably a junk gauge. Can't imagine how any engine could reach that kind of idle vacuum. Even a low lift cam 350 in stock configuration wont idle much over 20"-22" of vacuum.

 

my thoughts exactly.

well i registerd the car and actually got to drive it. it moves pretty good
i went up a couple sizes on the squirters and it helped alot but its still not right. biggest issue is the carb isnt sealing with the intake so its idling at 1200 even with the idle screw all the way out. my thought is the remaining bogging is due to the transfer slots not being exposed. plus while cruising it almost feels like its fighting itself. im goimg to check the jets and power valve and see where its at.

i also ordered a distributor curve kit and msd timing tape.
initial timing is set at 12 not sure what total is


still even with the poor running conditions it lays some pretty good rubber into second.


and the starter issue was actually starter. it snapped the bendix freewheel?