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  #1  
Old 08-19-2023 | 06:50 PM
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Default Saying Hi, have question!

Hi from Alberta Canada, just got my Gen 2 1979 Camaro project car and have an engine ID delema.
The block casting is 3970010 K2 and the engine id number by cyliunder #2 is T91589500 KO410T4W. I can not find the engine suffix anywhere on the web, can anybody assist me on this.
3970010 comes up 302,337,350 for years between 1969-1979, T91589500 not even close to vin numbers, probably replaced original, KO410 is Ontario, April 10th, but what is the T4W.......?
I like pics so here it is? Pics make it look okay...not the case!
Thanks in advance!!



 
  #2  
Old 08-19-2023 | 10:27 PM
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Nice looking car and I love the vintage Cragar mags.
I can't help with the numbers but I'd guess a garden variety 350,the 302,327 & 350 were all 4" bore so same block.
302s are rare only being in '67-'69 Z28s the 327 was around for 8 years and many were made but that was many decades ago.
The gen one 350 was around for 30+ years so millions were made and new crate engines are still available.
What does your car need ie "not the case" ?
 
  #3  
Old 08-20-2023 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by CDNwillyg
Hi from Alberta Canada, just got my Gen 2 1979 Camaro project car and have an engine ID delema.
The block casting is 3970010 K2 and the engine id number by cyliunder #2 is T91589500 KO410T4W. I can not find the engine suffix anywhere on the web, can anybody assist me on this.
3970010 comes up 302,337,350 for years between 1969-1979, T91589500 not even close to vin numbers, probably replaced original, KO410 is Ontario, April 10th, but what is the T4W.......?
I like pics so here it is? Pics make it look okay...not the case!
Thanks in advance!!


welcome to the forum, and you've got a nice looking motorthere mate.
Sorry that I can't help you with location of the numbers, but I'm quite new to Camaros as well.
Cheers

TD 😎
 
  #4  
Old 08-20-2023 | 08:55 AM
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Y2K- thanks for the info, it seems I always seem to get these odd ***** for engine codes, the the old girl is starting to get low on oil pressure 20-40 lbs and will some day need a rebuild.
The pics make this girl look good as a 20 footer but I will redue the entire body to straighten her out and the plastic piees on the inside need to be replaced along with a bit of BillyBob fixes. I did get it as a project so not discouraged at the work it needs, atleast its a driver in the mean time.
TD- the engine bling isnt my style so that too will be going.
 
  #5  
Old 08-20-2023 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by CDNwillyg
Y2K- thanks for the info, it seems I always seem to get these odd ***** for engine codes, the the old girl is starting to get low on oil pressure 20-40 lbs and will some day need a rebuild.
The pics make this girl look good as a 20 footer but I will redue the entire body to straighten her out and the plastic piees on the inside need to be replaced along with a bit of BillyBob fixes. I did get it as a project so not discouraged at the work it needs, atleast its a driver in the mean time.
TD- the engine bling isnt my style so that too will be going.
Well late second gens are fast increasing in value so a good project to have,1st gens and early 2nd gens have gotten so expensive it's pushing these cars up in value.
 
  #6  
Old 08-21-2023 | 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by CDNwillyg
Y2K- thanks for the info, it seems I always seem to get these odd ***** for engine codes, the the old girl is starting to get low on oil pressure 20-40 lbs and will some day need a rebuild.
The pics make this girl look good as a 20 footer but I will redue the entire body to straighten her out and the plastic piees on the inside need to be replaced along with a bit of BillyBob fixes. I did get it as a project so not discouraged at the work it needs, atleast its a driver in the mean time.
TD- the engine bling isnt my style so that too will be going.
Yes I'm with you on that one mate, subtle, not in yer face!
 
  #7  
Old 08-21-2023 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by CDNwillyg
Y2K- thanks for the info, it seems I always seem to get these odd ***** for engine codes, the the old girl is starting to get low on oil pressure 20-40 lbs and will some day need a rebuild..
Oil pressure is not a straight calculation for engine wear. The rule of thumb is 10 PSI per 1000 RPM. That is needed to not damage the engine. So at what RPM do you have 20-40 PSI. Also is that measurement been confirmed with a good hand held pressure gage? Most of the time when I see a complaint of low oil pressure and no other symptoms it tends to be a gage/sending unit issue. Then there is the fact it can be an oil pump issue and lastly even if the engine has some wear the life can be extended with a high volume pump. Of course in the normal life of a motor too much clearance in the bearing can be an end of life issue. An engine what was done correctly and not overpowered for the components can go through 2 valve trains before the bottom end needs a redo.



The best way to determine the life left in a motor is to send the oil to be analyzed. If it comes back with a lot of bearing material in the oil then its getting close. They should tell you that in the report. This will also give you a heads up if you have excessive blow by and if you are getting even trace amounts of antifreeze in the oil. Even in trace amounts antifreeze can greatly reduce the life of the motor.

All of that assume you are not just looking for a reason to build a new engine You know some forged pistons and rods that can handle some NO2.
 
  #8  
Old 08-21-2023 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CDNwillyg
Y2K- thanks for the info, it seems I always seem to get these odd ***** for engine codes, the the old girl is starting to get low on oil pressure 20-40 lbs and will some day need a rebuild..
Oil pressure is not a straight calculation for engine wear. The rule of thumb is 10 PSI per 1000 RPM. That is needed to not damage the engine. So at what RPM do you have 20-40 PSI. Also is that measurement been confirmed with a good hand held pressure gage? Most of the time when I see a complaint of low oil pressure and no other symptoms it tends to be a gage/sending unit issue. Then there is the fact it can be an oil pump issue and lastly even if the engine has some wear the life can be extended with a high volume pump. Of course in the normal life of a motor too much clearance in the bearing can be an end of life issue. An engine what was done correctly and not overpowered for the components can go through 2 valve trains before the bottom end needs a redo.

The best way to determine the life left in a motor is to send the oil to be analyzed. If it comes back with a lot of bearing material in the oil then its getting close. They should tell you that in the report. This will also give you a heads up if you have excessive blow by and if you are getting even trace amounts of antifreeze in the oil. Even in trace amounts antifreeze can greatly reduce the life of the motor.

All of that assume you are not just looking for a reason to build a new engine You know some forged pistons and rods that can handle some NO2.
 
  #9  
Old 08-23-2023 | 12:38 AM
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yes you are right I need to finish my TJ jeep before I get this one in the garage to do more investigating. 20 pis at idle and 40psi at 2000+rpm. No oil burning but still want to do a compression test and verify the pressures on the gauge. No ideas on the engine code suffix T4W?
 
  #10  
Old 08-23-2023 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by CDNwillyg
yes you are right I need to finish my TJ jeep before I get this one in the garage to do more investigating. 20 pis at idle and 40psi at 2000+rpm. No oil burning but still want to do a compression test and verify the pressures on the gauge. No ideas on the engine code suffix T4W?
Are you sure it's a 4 and not a letter? T usually means a truck motor,maybe TKW or TRK ? which would be a 1970s pickup motor.
 



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