Hello all, this is my first post. I recently purchased my first z28 it's a 96 polo green with tan leather. I have been a mustang guy for the last few years (let the flaming begin...). I started out with camaros a long time ago first one was a 87 irocZ.

Anyhow to the point I recently purchased a 4th gen z28 (stock HP is 285?) and have been working on it for the last few weeks, I think I have a decent idea of the HP but wanted to get some educated second opinions. It's not much so far but it's a start none the less here is my progress:

Morso intake with the smooth elbow to a cold air K&N filter
granatelli MAF
MSD optispark
Cat delete with dual flowmasters
egr 90 degree angle delete (basically the stock egr hose has 2 90 degree turns, I made my own hose with no sharp angels thinking that would increase air flow)
eagle alloy 17" wheels with toyo z rated tires (not necessarily a hp improver unless they are lighter than stock but I don't really know)
Also had it tuned for the cat delete and CAI to prevent it running lean and to keep the CEL off.

So what do you guys think 300hp or so?

Cosmetically I just did the headliner myself today. Not as bad as I had expected... Also replaced all radiator hoses and vacuum lines, valve cover gaskets and intake gasket.

This car is A HECK OF A LOT FASTER than my last 5.0 which was built and dyno'd at 315 HP. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

The only real performance upgrades I see are the K&N (5whp) and exhaust system (another 5whp for lack of cats and 5-10whp for free flowing duals) which puts you near 300 at the flywheel with the tune. The stock ignition and EFI components do a pretty good job until around 400-450 at the wheels and the emissions stuff won't hurt you unless it's forcing the PCM into limp mode (rich condition)... they either work or they don't. The MSD and Granatelli aren't doing much for you at the moment, but they'll become more useful as you upgrade air flow. Is it auto or manual?

 

Auto, I really wanted a manual but most of the ones here in my market had VERY high miles or were just beat to shreds. When I found this one it was near perfect inside and out plus the price was right. I figured that it was a trade off, less work in the long run and since she has less than 100k miles I figured she should be good for long while with some basic maintenance and a thorough going through.

The only thing I am stumped with right now is I have a rattle at 3500rpm and only 3500 rpm. I think I have it narrowed down though. Does not rattle in park or neutral only while under load. It looks like some of the heat shield on the passenger side of the vehicle is bent and possibly causing the noise. Not a big deal as I will get to it as soon as I get it on the lift this week.

Thanks for the confirmation. I also am thinking right around 300hp which is good enough to make me think twice about turning of the traction control next time it rains.

 

It's probably just an exhaust rattle. Make sure you have clearance around the crossmember under the driveshaft and near the rear (if it's not a pre-axle dump).

 

After digging into it today for some time I found the culprit. There was a deep socket 1-1 16 (looks like a oil pressure sensor socket) wedged between the firewall and transmission dust cover. Man that was a pain in the a$$ to get out cause I could not pull it out from under the car as there was not enough room and it was almost out of the reach of my very fingertips when trying to reach from the top since I had to reach about 7" past the oil pressure sensor.

Today I drove it from Tampa to Orlando about a 2 hour drive, when I got there my radiator started to sound like it was boiling. The temp gage was not all the way to the red but pretty close... I noticed at a light, so I startd to drive and as soon as I was rolling it went back to the half way point. But again when I parked it went right back up. When I got home (I drove it back with no issues) it was doing the same thing.

I let it cool all the way down and the coolant levels were fine. I did open the bleeders and there was a little air from the lower one by the water pump but not much. I drove it for another 30 minutes and no issues however in idle or park it does go more than 3/4 of the way up. Does this sound normal?

 

Might just need a new sensor. I know mine used to not work at all. Replaced the sensor, fixed the problem. But that's the only suggestion I can think of.

 

may still have air in it. bleed the air again. https://camaroforums.com/forum/lt1-l...-system-66742/

 

The engine fans are programmed to come on at 226*F for low speed and 235*F for high speed with the stock tune. The car should yo-yo between 210 and 230 at idle while stationary, assuming the cooling system has been bled properly. I'd wait until the car cools for several hours and check the radiator + overflow levels. Top off the radiator, cap it, and bleed with the front of the car propped up on ramps or blocks.

 

OK, done! Now for good measure I would like to change the coolant temp sensor I have heard mentioned. Where is that located? On the water pump, throttle body, radiator? I have searched around under the hood but can't tell exactly.

 

its on the water pump. number 9 on the list here 4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech-Component Location Views