No codes, YET.

 

Still no codes. My idle was set high. but thats it.


So here is the damage from the laughable "estimate" that they gave me.
(All prices BEFORE taxes)
TELL ME WHAT I REALLY NEED im not doing it through them but come on...

Injectors and fuel induction cleaned and tested - 279.00
Front brakes -174.95
Rear Brakes - 174.95
(Gee i didn't ask you to check my brakes i have those parts ordered)
Rear diff Pinion seal - 244.00
Trans Tail shaft seal - 221.00
(Heres where the actual problem starts)
Fuel Pump - 1044.00 no... just no...
Fuel filter (my brand new one is bad apparently) 77.95
Distributor - 742.32 uninstalled
Water Pump - 486.95 uninstalled
Intallation of both - 539.00
(thats 1768.27 fyi)
Drive belt - 175.00 installed

 

Oh gawd, over $4k in repairs! I'm really lovin that trans and diff seal quote. About $15 in parts and less than an hour of labor time once the car is on the lift. The driveshaft has to come out to do both, and they're prolly hosing you for book price as if they were separate jobs. I'll do the seals for you for half that, and I'd still feel guilty! I'm surprised they didn't suggest replacing the u-joints too.
I don't think anybody here can tell you for sure what you really need fixed, without a diagnosis. I'd get a second opinion, especially on the distributor part. Apparently they must think your opti is bad, and possibly the cause of your shakes. The water pump has to come off anyway to change the opti, so you're getting hosed there as well, not to mention the tremendous markup on the cost of parts. How much of this can you do yourself?

 

holy crab im in the wrong business
i would say they think there a problem with the opti and your planning on changing that. its strange that they didnt think plugs or wires were'nt needed. i would do a fuel pressure test to comfirm there thoughts on it. you can check the filter by taking it out and dumping it from the tank side to see if its got crab in it. if im taking the dang thing out though i would put a new one in and if changing the pump i would as well.

 

he brought me back and showed me the pump pressure tester. fuel pump is pushing 34 lbs

so from what i know its supposed to be at 50lbs. pumps going...

if the pump comes out so does the filter... thats a rule i thought... lol

I can and will do it myself... there is one GLARING issue though... this is my daily driver... so im doing it all tomorrow. can someone tell me a parts list? things i will need now.

 

I know thats unrealistic. Im joking. Before anyone says it. What brand opti should i look at? what brand fuel pump?

 

oh yea, and another question... I have no clue if the trans on this car was serviced before i got it, but its a t56 with a solid clutch. trans service/flush? rear diff flush? why would someone flush the break lines?

 

...or the fuel pressure regulator is going. A bad regulator can cause high or low fuel pressure, and will give the symptoms you're getting. To see if your low pressure might be from the regulator, pull the vacuum hose off of it and see if there's any gas in there (shouldn't be any). If you don't see any gas, leave the hose off and turn your key to the on position to prime the pump. If gas dribbles from the vac hose fitting, the regulator is bad.

 

37 to 41 is normal so 35 at idle with the fpr hooked up would be a tad low but ok. the lt1 kinda likes a little lower pressure when stock. had mine set low like 37lbs max and it ran better, that was stock.

 

Brake fluid will absorb moisture over time and lose performance over time. It is a good idea to flush out your brake fluid and replace it every couple of years, especially if you live someplace with a lot of moisture. I personally flush and replace my brake fluid whenever I do a brake job.

Flushing out the rear end and tranny should also be done from time to time. Gives you the opportunity to check for abnormal gear wear and any possible damage. Plus, you can replace the stock gear oils with good quality synthetic stuff and that can help improve gas mileage a bit.