did you ohm the harness wire, one end to the other? could be the connector or the harness, crab, shoulda asked if you checked that first.

 

That's is not your problem. Nobody should ever test continuity with the circuit powered. A multimeter cannot reliably test continuity unless the circuit is dead! I wish he would remove that test. Everyone gets different results depending on the multimeter and the cars wiring and battery state.

 

just ohmed the harness one end to the other, came up with 0 on all 4 wires. Any suggestion on where to go from here?

 

The 3vac you are getting at pin B of the ICM seems to indicate everything is working up to that point. Only the ICM, coil, and the Opti cap are left.
Maybe I missed it, but did you say the coil was checked or replaced? A shorted coil could burn up the ICM, I suppose.

 

Coil has not been replaced. Done a coil continuity test and came up with 8500ohms on A,B,C,and D, from what I read that is where it is suppose to be

 

That test only checks the secondary winding, not the primary resistance. I don't know the resistance of the primary. I would get the new ICM tested. If it's bad, replace the coil.
Is the coil's fuse the correct value (10 amps #11 in the underhood box)?

Edit: I did find one source that specs the primary resistance as 0.7 to 1.7 ohms. That was a generic coil though, not necessarily an LT1 coil. You would measure from pin A to pin B ( one connector to the other).

 

Thanks for the info GrayDoug. I will certainly get the new icm tested, that was an $80 part. I guess since everything else is new that throwing a few more $$ at it by replacing the coil ain't gonna hurt anything but my wallet.

The reason I replaced the icm was that I pulled a code 41 and tested according to fsm , with the connector passing every test I took that icm along with another that came with the car (neither were new) had them tested and wound up buying a new one cause both of them tested bad. After installing the new one and getting no spark I pulled codes again and got a code 41 again. This was per instructions to clear codes and turn engine over for 15 seconds to see if the code came back, it did and I am going bald very quickly. So returning here to maybe find some answers and keep at least part of my hair.

 

if you havent yet, make sure your grounds are good. one to the front of the starter, one by/below the coil/icm.

 

Thanks craby, checked grounds and they are good. My parts guy was off today so I'll get the new icm tested asap and go ahead and buy a new coil since that is the only piece left that is not new or test proven

 

Make sure the #11 "Ignition" fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box is 10 amps like it's supposed to be.