Guess the only question is what (if anything) do I do now?

Planning on having the radiator flushed today, already did oil, tires, complete brakes and rotors, tune up, struts, posi fluid with additive and serpentine belt.

Guess I just drive her and see how it goes?

 

how did the oil look? what oil are you using? what oil filter was on it and what fitler did you use? pressure switch is working being your gauge is rising and falling with rpms. once at operating temp 20lb rise and/or fall seems to be common with the lt1 motors. i have about 30k on mine and its at 40-60 using 5w30.

 

I didn't change it...it's Mobil 1 5w30 with AC Delco oil filter.

Try another oil change? Possible the new filter got clogged with old gunk?

 

I would verify pressure with a mechanical gauge, it is the only way to narrow things down. I used 5W-30 (normally run 10W-40 all year, including winters) my last oil change and with 124k miles, mine never drops below 30 psi when at operating temp and that's verified by the mechanical gauge I installed.

Everrett and 69, you both kind of made your explanation of oil confusing (even for me). And although you guys know this, for the OP first number is the winter viscosity rating, second number is the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature. So in a way, yes, it magically goes from a SAE 5 viscosity to a SAE 30 viscoisty. At 210 degrees F, 5W-30 performs like SAE 30 oil, while at colder temperatures (it varies) it will perform like a SAE 5 oil

 

Just for my info what if mech gauges confirm dash is correct? If my oil pressure is low but still within GM spec, what would you guys suggest I do about it? Is there anything that can or should be done?

Is my worst case scenario the whole damn thing locks up? If that happens I have it rebuilt to a 383 stroker and I'm good to go again louder and faster? Ballpark what does that cost from a reputable shop? $5,000-$6,000? Only reason I ask is I would love a reason to do that anyway

 

If a mechanical gauge were to confirm it, I would "assume" the engine was replaced at some point with a higher mileage unit. If that is the case, you could try running something thicker, 10W-40 or even 20W-50....they even make a 5W-40 (and 0W-40 for that matter) if you wanna keep the easier cold start ups. That could potentially lengthen the time before something fails. Also, you could try another filter, K & N, Bosch, and Purolator all make quailty filters.

If you'd rather rebuild it and do stroker, I wouldn't wait for it fail. I'd just do it now there's less headaches later. You'd be looking at $10+k easy for a 383. It adds up quick.

 

And here I thought I was making it easier so even you wouldn't be confused! lol
Seriously tho, let's try it a different way....5=cold viscosity, 30=same oiling properties of straight 30 weight.
The other point I was making is that some are with the misconception that the oil actually "thickens up" from 5 to 30 when it gets hot. Drain the pan when the oil is hot and let me know how thick it really gets.
firstcamaro, I think you're over thinking, and maybe even over worrying things. And really, if you want to be fair about what your oil pressure is at "idle", check it while in park, not while in gear.

 

If the oil pressure checks low and you are sure it is a low miles motor you could try another oil pump. It is a lot of work/money and it would only help if the issue is the pump.

FYI rebuilding a motor that has locked up can cost a lot more then rebuilding a motor with low oil pressure. Depending on what gives at what RPMs the motor may not be rebuildable. I have seen a lot of locked up motors that could not be rebuild.

If it was me, and the mechaincal gage confimed low idle oil pressure, I would be looking for a used short block to do the rebuild on and take it easy on the current motor.

 

nope dont need to change it, next time you need to change oil try some 10w30. dont worry about it i think your just fine, wanted to make sure your not using fram filter. i would drive it for a few k miles and see how it goes. if nothing changes your good to go.

 

This is where I get confused, if 10psi per 1000rpm is the rule and GM spec is as low as 6psi (both of which I am good) do I really need to be concerned with imminent failure?