lt1 rebuild, (don't worry i searched the forums)
#1
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i searched around and didn't really come across any threads of an lt1 stock rebuild, i saw posts of people who have done them, or people who bore them out. i'm 17 and don't know an insane amount about rebuilds, but i'm thinking about buying a rebuild kit for 450 bucks and just kinda going all out on it. everyone i've talked to says they're very in depth and time consuming, of course, but what exactly makes them so difficult? also on the rebuild kits it doesn't include the camshaft or lifters, when you do a rebuild is it wise to invest in new ones?
#2
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I wouldn't try it by yourself or without someone around to help you because there are so many tricks and things to, if you miss one thing-it will be over before you get started. Like filing the rings to the proper size. Using the plastiguage to check main and rod bearing clearances. Checking end play. Making sure the piston has between .002-005 clearance in the bore. I can go on and on and on...the most important thing is cleanliness though. Better seek assistance on your first build. The lifters are usually fine, the cam is fine unless you desire to increase power in which case it can become a domino effect causing more supporting mods for the cam. Put the lifters in a cup of oil when you remove them though so they maintain their prime, otherwise you will be back on here with a post about how your newly rebuilt engine is knocking and you dont know why.
Last edited by 383Stro; 07-10-2010 at 07:17 AM.
#3
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Save up and send you long block to Grooms in Tenn. 2300 last year for a total true rebuild, with a lifetime unlimited mile warranty. Had mine done by them, Great Job !! Bored .040 over, new pistons and all new valves, balanced, new timing chain and gears, push rods. They specialize in LT1's !! I have 12000 on the rebuild with zero problems, you will have some other expenses like water pump, belt, spark plus & wires, pulleys, sensors, ect.... This is a very big job, so prepair yourself for a few months of downtime too.
http://www.groomsengines.com/
http://www.groomsengines.com/
Last edited by CNCman; 07-10-2010 at 08:31 AM.
#7
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Yep 2,000 hard earned american dollars. That was only for the long block stock rebuild. Spent another $2,000 on things like GM opti, waterpump, alternator, new windshield, harmonic balancer, belt and tensoner, Map, TPS, oil level, knock, 2- temp, 2-O2's, sparkplugs and wires, oil and filter, heater hoses, radiator hoses, tranny filter and fluid and seals, lots of paint, cleaning stuff. Cannot remember everything. Plus all the tools like, engine puller, 2 floor jacks and stands, air compressor, pressure washer, cleaning tank, hand tools galore. Almost forgot a hell of alot of sweat !
This was my first major project, glad its done.
Still need to change radiator, fuel pump, heater core, brake shoes and rotors and window motors.
If you get a Camaro, you will become a mechanic !! LOL !!
This was my first major project, glad its done.
Still need to change radiator, fuel pump, heater core, brake shoes and rotors and window motors.
If you get a Camaro, you will become a mechanic !! LOL !!
#9
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welcome newb
first, it comes down to what is your goal. Most of us regular posters here are "enthusiasts". That means that we pamper these cars with respect to doing a job. if the engine is being yanked for what ever reason, then dollars for donuts most of us will replace the rear seal even if it isn't leaking. We'd drop the oil pan and do the front seals and oil pan gasket and a few other items.
So, when we tackle a rebuild, most of us are doing it for more power or to bring it back to as good as or better than new.
Now, we don't know your situation. I've taken engines that needed a head gasket and only replaced the components that I disturbed and didn't bother with new valve seals. Why, the car wasn't worth the time and the goal was to get it back on the road to live another day, or maybe another few months.
I travel internationally a lot into poor countries and there are cars that spew oil, the engines knock yet the families are riding in them.
So yes, you could yank the motor, hone the cylinders yourself, clean things up, slap on some new gaskets and an oil pump and it will probably run. But, don't come back later asking
how do I make more power
I am losing coolant......
I have a slight oil leak
it comes down to your situation. There is a reason you paid less than $1k for the car (based upon your statement about what you paid)
If you wanted the engine in tip top shape, then the car should have cost at least $4500- $5,000 so you do the math. it's all about what you want, and when you want to spend the money, at the outset, or in stages.
cheers
oh, when your folks told you that there was no such thing as a free lunch, this is what they meant.
first, it comes down to what is your goal. Most of us regular posters here are "enthusiasts". That means that we pamper these cars with respect to doing a job. if the engine is being yanked for what ever reason, then dollars for donuts most of us will replace the rear seal even if it isn't leaking. We'd drop the oil pan and do the front seals and oil pan gasket and a few other items.
So, when we tackle a rebuild, most of us are doing it for more power or to bring it back to as good as or better than new.
Now, we don't know your situation. I've taken engines that needed a head gasket and only replaced the components that I disturbed and didn't bother with new valve seals. Why, the car wasn't worth the time and the goal was to get it back on the road to live another day, or maybe another few months.
I travel internationally a lot into poor countries and there are cars that spew oil, the engines knock yet the families are riding in them.
So yes, you could yank the motor, hone the cylinders yourself, clean things up, slap on some new gaskets and an oil pump and it will probably run. But, don't come back later asking
how do I make more power
I am losing coolant......
I have a slight oil leak
it comes down to your situation. There is a reason you paid less than $1k for the car (based upon your statement about what you paid)
If you wanted the engine in tip top shape, then the car should have cost at least $4500- $5,000 so you do the math. it's all about what you want, and when you want to spend the money, at the outset, or in stages.
cheers
oh, when your folks told you that there was no such thing as a free lunch, this is what they meant.