You shouldn't have to replace the fuel pump if the engine and pump pass the fuel pressure tests. Mine did so there was no need to replace the pump. I know when researching forums of the same problem a lot of times I see where they have replaced the pump and it doesn't solve the problem.

I just purchased my diagnostic cable and I'm just going to have to scan the numbers, codes, and see what I get and have to fine tune or check over again.

 

Why just replace it? You can rent a pressure gauge for FREE at Autozone. Test the pump and know for SURE that it is either OK or has a problem.

 

Ok got my cable from Moates today and have it all set up and working properly. Within seconds of starting the scan and the engine it pulled 3 codes that weren't setting the SES light. I have codes 48(MAF failure) 42(EST grounded or short) and 22(Throttle Position Low). So let me know what I should do. I understand I'll need to replace the MAF sensor but as for the others no idea. The TPS is still new so I assume it just needs to be slotted into the correct voltage. But I have no idea what the EST code is for.

Also, can you give me a how-to on actually saving the freescan data file so I can share it. Thanks.

 

gota go ill be back in a few hours and do some more research, i dont have a maf so that one i will not have anything on.

 

Well I read what you gave me, I have already checked the coil with my meter previously and it checked ok. The icm also tested good. So now I assume it is an intermittent problem. The pages say to refer to the check aids and I think that is the test descriptions on the first page? If so, I have no idea what CKT means or any of the numbers which follow it such as CKT 423....I found it on the page, but it refers to the icm again which tested good when I took it to oreillys.

***I cleared the codes and they have yet to come back on.

**another edit. My tps voltage at idle was .82 and I think that falls into the proper range? Also, my IAC position number was extremely high at 128, is that what you refer to as the IAC counts? Tell me if this would be the correct way to adjust them. Keeping my eye on the tps voltage as well as the IAC counts, slowly back out the stop screw until I get the IAC counts in the correct range while also not bringing the tps voltage out of whack. I just need to know what optimum settings/numbers are for these two sensors and I can try it.

 

should be at .5 ot .6, ckt is circuit, my iac was at like 160 when i did this one. how old is your opti?

 

I have no idea how old the opti is, I've owned the vehicle since March. I've wanted to put a new opti in anyways since it had the intake leak and the front end was filthy I just know the opti is probably extremely dirty. I want to get in and at least take it a part to attempt to clean and check the cap, rotor, sensor, and bearings. But I need to figure out this idle problem and some stuff before I dig into it in case it might not be the problem.

 

Also to add after looking at yours, my knock counts for extremely high compared to yours. I ran a few different scans and the lowest I can recall was about 2700 but there was no spark retard ever, and the last spark advance number I can recall was 36

 

try adjusting the idle screw down and see if it bottoms out real soon. if not the po may have adjusted wrong or had some other issue like the maf that wouldnt let it idle low so he tryed to up the idle. to a point all that happens is the iac opens less.

 

Freescan showed me that the set idle rpm was 800, it also has the option to reset the iac step counts to default with the iac valve and the pcm. So I'll reset both of them and see what that does. Then, if I need to adjust further Ill try to slowly back the screw out until the tps voltage is in range of .5 to .6 and the iac counts are around 155 or so....does that sound ok?